韩正文 刘瑞璞

摘要： “婴戏图”作为中国传统纹样的重要组成部分有着悠久的历史，其出现的形式多样，但对其研究多集中于书画、瓷器、砖刻及漆器等艺术表现形式。文章基于传世纺织品标本对晚清女装中普遍出现的“婴戏图”刺绣进行解读，采用标本与文献结合二重考证和比较研究的方法，对白地婴戏图刺绣女袄的图案进行信息采集与分析。发现晚清女装婴戏纹样的大量出现，不仅带有明显的宗族文化色彩，继承了宋代祈子的宗族理念，更是受到明清科举改制拓宽学子读书举仕途径的影响，成为宗族企盼后辈读书、科举及第的蒙学教科书。晚清女装婴戏图将祈子、教子、祈禄的吉祥寓意联系在一起，隐寓了中国几千年儒家传统的民族大义，为人们了解中国充满世俗文化的儒家传统以深刻启示。

关键词： 晚清女装;婴戏图;祈子;科举;文化内涵

中图分类号： TS941.716.1;K892.23

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）08008005

引用页码： 081202

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.08.014（篇序）

A study on the structure and connotation of "Playing Baby Painting" basedon the clothing specimens in late Qing dynasty

HAN Zhengwen， LIU Ruipu

（College of Fashion Art and Engineering， Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， Beijing 100029， China）

Abstract： "Playing Baby Painting" as an important constituent part of Chinese traditional patterns has a long history and diverse forms. However， studies mainly focus on paintings， porcelain， brick engraving， lacquerware and other forms of art expression. This paper interprets the embroidery that frequently seen in womens clothing in the late Qing dynasty based on the hereditary fabric specimen， collected the information and analyzes patterns in embroidered female jacket in "Playing Baby Painting on White Ground" by specimen-literature combined examination and comparative study. It is found that the "Playing Baby" patterns appeared in great quantity in womens clothing in the late Qing dynasty， which not only reflected significant clan culture but also inherited the clan concept of praying for many children in Song dynasty. In addition， under the influence of the reform of imperial examination system in Ming and Qing dynasties for expanding students official career paths， it became the elementary textbook for clans to expect the later generations success in the academic career. The "Playing Baby Painting" in womens clothing in the late Qing dynasty connected the auspicious implications of praying for children， teaching children and praying for official career， implying the Chinese national righteous cause of Confucian tradition for thousands of years and providing an in-depth enlightenment for people to understand Confucian tradition full of Chinas secular culture.

Key words： womens clothing in late Qing dynasty; "Playing Baby Painting"; praying for more children; imperial examination system; cultural connotation

收稿日期： 20210123;

修回日期： 20210713

基金項目： 国家社科基金艺术学一般项目（19BG115）;北京服装学院研究生科研创新项目（120301990131/001）

作者简介： 韩正文（1994），女，硕士研究生，研究方向为传统纹样。通信作者：刘瑞璞，教授，13121072867@qq.com。

中国古代婴戏图饰用于女装始于宋代，盛于明代，终于清代，到晚清婴戏图可以说是祈子、教子、祈禄的集大成者，而成为晚清“冠带流传”的蒙学教科书，最具代表性的就是情境式婴戏图女袄的流行。本研究有幸得到了收藏

家王金华先生提供的婴戏图系列纺织品标本的支持，特别是他的精品晚清白地婴戏图刺绣女袄，该标本刺绣图案内容丰富，研究价值很高。……