汤琳 贺荣 蔡王丹 祝成炎 艾惠花 张红霞

摘要： 傣錦作为中国历史中技术水平最高的丝织品的一种，其技艺与图案都有着独特的民族特色和文化寓意，具有极强的艺术表现力和民族情怀。随着保护传统文化的呼声越来越高，傣锦的保护与传承也越来越受到关注，保护傣锦变得刻不容缓。通过调研，文章从傣锦纹样的组织形式、纹样题材和色彩特征三方面进行艺术特征探析，探究了傣锦的装饰性、宗教性和传承性三方面的应用。研究认为，傣锦的艺术特征表现了当地的风土民情，只有将傣锦的传统与时尚结合，才能让其走得更高、更远。通过对傣锦纹样的解读及其应用的分析，期望可以更好地发展和传承傣锦，发扬中国传统文化和少数民族文化，同时也为傣锦在今后的设计中提供参考意见。

关键词： 傣锦纹样;艺术特征;传统文化;文化价值;非物质文化遗产;傣族

中图分类号： TS941.2;J523.1

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）08011307

引用页码： 081302

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.08.019（篇序）

Analysis on the artistic characteristics of Dai brocade and its application

TANG Lin1， HE Rong2， CAI Wangdan1， ZHU Chengyan1， AI Huihua3， ZHANG Hongxia1

（1.National Engineering Laboratory of Textile Fiber Materials and Processing Technology， Zhejiang Sci-Tech University， Hangzhou 310018， China;2.Hangzhou Shuolin Textile Co.， Ltd.， Hangzhou 311100， China; 3.Xishuangbanna Jujiang Intangible Cultural HeritageCommunication and Exchange， Xishuangbanna 666109， China）

Abstract： Among silk fabrics in Chinese history， Dai brocade can reflect the highest technology level. With unique national characteristics and cultural implication in its craftsmanship and patterns， it also has strong artistic expressive force and expresses national sentiments. With the increasingly stronger advocation of traditional culture conservation， the protection and inheritance of Dai brocade has received greater attention. It is imperative to protect Dai brocade. This paper conducts an investigation and analyzes the artistic characteristics of Dai brocade patterns from three aspects of the organizational form， the theme of the patterns and the color characteristics， and explores the application of Dai brocade from its decorative function， religious attribute and inheritance. It is believed that the artistic characteristics of Dai brocade manifest the local customs and conditions. Only by combining the tradition and fashion of Dai brocade can it achieve further and better development. It is hoped that the analysis of Dai brocade pattern and its application will be conductive to the development and inheritance of Dai brocade， thereby carrying forward Chinese traditional culture and minority culture. At the same time， it is expected to provide reference opinions for the subsequent design of Dai brocade.

Key words： Dai brocade pattern; artistic characteristics; traditional culture; cultural value; intangible cultural heritage; Dai nationality

收稿日期： 20201206;

修回日期： 20210703

基金项目： 浙江省高等教育“十三五”第二批教学改革研究项目（jg20190135）;浙江省“十三五”省级产学合作协同育人项目（浙教办函〔2019〕365号）;浙江省“十三五”省级大学生校外实践教育基地项目（浙教办函〔2019〕311号）

作者简介： 汤琳（1996），女，硕士研究生，研究方向为纺织品设计研究。通信作者：张红霞，教授级高级工程师，hongxiazhang8@126.com。

傣锦即傣族的织锦，是流传在傣族民间的一种古老的手工纺织工艺品，具有浓郁的地方特色和少数民族特色。但是随着现代社会经济的快速发展，纺织业引入了自动化机器，实现了纺织品批量化生产的新模式。……