周佳 赵丰

摘要： 明朝在与日本的勘合贸易中，赏赐了许多织金锦，这些织金在日本广受喜爱并以名物裂金襕的形式保存下来，但学界少有人将二者联系起来。文章以勘合贸易中的重要文献《大明别幅并两国勘合》中的织金锦信息为基础，采用文献研究法、对比研究法，综合文献图像和名物裂金襕实物等多重证据对其中的织金锦进行研究，旨在为探讨中日丝绸文化交流作出贡献。研究结果显示，其中的织金胸背与蒙元制相似，织金与浑织金为同类织物即用片金线显纹的织物，有全越与半越、地络与别络等方式。在织金图案的选择上，明朝政府会根据日本国情和文化的特殊性作出武官补纹和梧桐叶纹等的针对性给赐。

关键词： 明朝;日本;勘合贸易;织金锦;金襕;丝绸交流

中图分类号： TS941.12;K892.23

文献标志码： B

Abstract： During the tributary trade with Japan， the Ming dynasty rewarded many gold brocades. These gold brocades were very popular in Japan and preserved in the form of the Kinran of Meibutsugire， but few scholars have made connection between the two. Based on the information about gold brocade in the important document The Great Ming Scroll and Tributary Trade between Two Countries in the tributary trade， this paper analyzes gold brocade in them， through literature review， comparative study and multiple evidence， such as intergrated document images and Kinran of Meibutsugire with a view to discuss silk cultural exchanges between Japan and China. The research findings show that the gold brocade patterns in front of the chest and behind the back are similar to the style in the Mongolian Yuan dynasty. Gold brocade and gold-doped brocade are similar fabrics that show patterns with gold threads. There are full-cross and semi-cross， weft-knitting and warp-knitting， etc. Regarding the choice of patterns of gold brocade， the Ming government tended to give targeted rewards according to the national conditions and particular culture of Japan， such as square patterns on the military officers court dresses and phoenix leaf patterns.

Key words： Ming dynasty; Japan; tributary trade; gold brocade; Kinran; silk exchange

明朝政府與各国的朝贡贸易中，丝绸交流是十分重要的部分，各番邦外夷对明朝赏赐的织金锦十分喜爱，乞赐不断。据《大明会典》的不完全记载，获赐织金锦的有十多个国家，且以日本尤多。这些织金锦到了日本，被用来点饰装束、装裱佛经和书画，而后在茶道文化的兴盛中，成为名物裂的代表织物金襕，深刻地影响了日本染织文化。

关于明代织金锦的研究，学界已有不少讨论，最主要的有沈从文先生[1]介绍了实物遗存状况及明代织金锦的风尚，还有熊瑛[2]依据实物与文献，梳理出明代饰金风格和使用的演变并探究其成因。而针对名物裂中金襕的研究主要集中在日本学界，日本学者明石染人[3]明确指出日本的金襕是在明代初期传入日本的。……