蒋佳怡 张红霞 祝成炎 田伟 李艳清 金肖克 夏帅飞

摘要： 为探讨纬纱中吸湿快干抗菌涤/竹（70/30）混纺纱含量和组织的变化对织物功能性的影响，文章以桑蚕丝作为经纱原料，吸湿快干抗菌涤竹纱和绢丝纱作为纬纱原料，试织造9种组织相同、涤竹纱含量不同的交织物和5种纬纱为涤竹纱、组织不同的交织物，并测试织物吸湿快干和抗菌的性能。结果表明：在A系列织物中，纬纱全为涤竹纱时，织物的滴水扩散时间最短为1.4 s，经纬向芯吸高度值最大，纬排比1︰3时织物的蒸发速率和透湿量值最大;在B系列织物中，八枚缎纹织物的吸湿快干性能最好;织物的抗菌性能与涤竹纱含量是非线性相关，但整体来看织物的抗菌性能优良。

关键词： 吸湿快干功能;抗菌功能;真丝纤维;交织物;服用性能;涤竹纱;八枚缎纹织物

中图分类号： TS145.6

文献标志码： A

Abstract： In order to explore the influence of the changes in the content and weave of hygroscopic and quick-drying antibacterial blended polyester/bamboo（70/30） yarn on fabric functionality， by taking mulberry silk as the warp material， hygroscopic and quick-drying antibacterial polyester/bamboo yarn and spun silk yarn as the weft raw materials， nine kinds of intertextures with the same weave and different contents of polyester bamboo yarn and five kinds of fabrics with different weaves and the same content of polyester bamboo yarn were woven. The hygroscopic and quick-drying antibacterial properties of the fabrics were tested. The results show that： in series A fabrics， when the weft yarns are all polyester bamboo yarns， the shortest drip diffusion time of fabrics is 1.4 s， and the wicking height in the warp and weft directions is the largest， and the evaporation rate and moisture permeability of the fabric are the largest when the weft row ratio is 1︰3. In series B fabrics， eight satin fabrics have the best hygroscopic and quick-drying properties， and there is a nonlinear correlation between the antibacterial property of the fabric and the content of polyester bamboo yarn， but generally speaking， the antibacterial properties of the fabric are excellent.

Key words： the function of hygroscopic and quick-drying; antibacterial function; real silk fiber; intertexture; wearability; polyester bamboo yarn; eight satin fabrics

近年来，随着科技不断发展，人们生活品质得到了提升，健康的意识不断地强化，同时对纺织品的保健功能性提出了更多的诉求[1]。并且随着功能纺织品发展空间的不断扩大，舒适型和健康功能型纺织品正逐渐成为发展的主题和时尚[2]。据相关统计，目前功能性面料的市场需求还在逐年上升，尤其是新型的功能性面料还具有广泛的市场发展前景[3]。

功能性面料的开发首先要通过选用合适的原材料，赋予其独特的功能，满足人们对自然舒适性和健康美观性的时尚需求[4]。目前在纺织原料中，真丝纤维被誉为纤维中的皇后，它在穿着的舒适和保健方面，有着无法取代的地位[5]。……