王韦尧 张毅 杨丽

摘要： 南京云锦作为中国最传统的丝织工艺品之一，自元朝起成为皇家御用品后，南京云锦所蕴含的宫廷文化的审美价值和内涵一直受到社会各界的广泛关注，也是充满着符号意义的世界非物质文化遗产。文章通过在南京云锦博物馆进行实地考察，以符号学理论作为研究方法，将南京云锦的工艺、纹饰、色彩三种符号元素进行整理，运用莫里斯符号学三分法分别从语形学、语用学、语义学三方面分析南京云锦，进而总结其宫廷文化内涵和审美价值的符号表现。研究认为，南京云锦中的宫廷审美内涵价值体现在其穷奢极侈的材料的运用，皇室象征的龙纹图案造型及皇室专用的明黄色彩，凸显出南京云锦作为皇室御用品的专属尊贵，并创新设计出一款南京云锦宫廷审美文化衍生的主题图案丝巾。

关键词： 南京云锦;宫廷审美;符号学;莫里斯符号学三分法;主题图案丝巾;织锦;非物质文化遗产

中图分类号： TS941.2;J523

文献标志码： B

Abstract： Nanjing brocade， as one of the most traditional silk woven handicrafts in China， has become a royal imperial article since the Yuan dynasty. The aesthetic value and connotation of the palace culture contained in Nanjing Brocade has been widely concerned by all walks of life， and it is also a world intangible cultural heritage with symbolic meaning. Through a field visit to Nanjing brocade museum， this article uses semiotic theory as a research method to arrange three symbolic elements including the craftsmanship， pattern and color of Nanjing brocade， and uses Morris semiotics to analyze Nanjing brocade from three aspects： morphology， pragmatics， and semantics， to summarize the symbolic expressions of its connotation and aesthetic value of palace culture. The study believes that the connotation and aesthetic value of palace culture in Nanjing brocade are reflected in its the extravagant use of materials， the dragon pattern that symbolizes the imperial family and the unique bright yellow for the imperial family， which highlights the exclusiveness and dignity of Nanjing brocade as an imperial family royal supply. Also， a new silk scarf with a theme derived from the royal aesthetic culture of Nanjing brocade is designed.

Key words： Nanjing brocade; royal aesthetics; semiotics; Morris semiotics; silk scarf with a themed pattern; brocade; intangible cultural heritage

“云錦”一词源于清道光时期的南京云锦织所，晚清以来这一称谓逐渐流传并被广泛使用，此后“南京云锦”一词便有意识地作为南京地方多种提花织锦的代称[1]。《释名·采帛》中有记：“锦，金也。作之用功重，其价如金。故唯尊者得服。”[1]用这样的诗句来描述锦的特点。这种彩色花纹的丝织物鲜明华丽，代表着中国古代丝织技术的最高技艺。素来就具有“六朝古都”“十代都会”美誉的南京，物产丰富、人文