黄乔宇 刘瑞璞

摘要： 挽袖是缝缀于女服衣袖的缘饰，其在明清时期的传承发展中先后被多个民族、不同阶级所使用，并逐渐礼化。文章诉诸跨学科史学法、比较史学法和定量研究法等分析后发现，挽袖前身为元明时期百姓起居时用的“素地宽褾”，至明末“锦绣宽褾”成为妇行教化普及的载体，燕居女服舒挽共制格局形成。清初服制正统改弦更张，但民间女服被视为琐屑家事，只有谕令而不立典章。数代太平盛世后，“锦绣宽褾”被汉人商品化、礼服化，再度风靡社会。直至清代嘉庆的“秀女汉妆”事件，才引发朝堂震悚，随后道光帝在规劝旧俗回归同时，又于宫廷内悄然实行内廷命妇便服改制，将汉式缘袖与满女袍服杂糅，后于同治初年定名“挽袖”，载入御制清档。清末，慈禧的照片外交又使得“挽袖”远扬欧美，再度成为封建伦理蚁溃的隐寓。明清挽袖在从俗浮沉中吸纳了各阶级艺术与各民族文化，终得封建伦理正视，其发展是中华服饰历尽朝代更迭仍一脉相承的又一歷史实证。

关键词： 明清;女服挽袖;女性教育;宗族文化;民族融合

Abstract： Wanxiu originated from the Ming dynasty and flourished in the Qing dynasty. It is a kind of fringes sewn on sleeves of womens wear， which has been used by many ethnic groups and different classes during its inheritance and development in the Ming and Qing dynasties， and gradually became a ritual. After analyzing using cross-disciplinary historical approach， comparative historical approach and quantitative research method， etc. this paper disccovered that Wanxiu was formerly "grey cloth sleeves with a wide cuff" used by civilians in their daily life in Yuan and Ming dynasties. At the end of Ming dynasty， "brocade sleeves with a wide cuff" became a carrier for fostering and popularizing female virtues. A pattern of female informal dress（燕居女服） and Shuxiu（stretched sleeves）/Wanxiu（rolled up sleeves） was formed. In the early Qing dynasty， the new imperial power changed the orthodox of the clothing system， but the folk womens clothing was regarded as trivial and household. There was only edict but no specific regulations. After several generations of peace and prosperity， "brocade sleeves with a wide cuff" were commercialized and ritualized by the Han people， and once again swept the society. During the Reign of Jiaqing in the Qing dynasty， an incident that "the emperors harem wore a Han makeup" happened， and the court was greatly shocked. Later， while exhorting people to return to old customs， Emperor Daoguang secretly reformed womens casual clothes in his palace and mixed the fringed sleeves of Han nationality with the female gown of Manchu. Later in the early reign of Tongzhi， it was named "Wanxiu" and recorded in Qing archives made by the emperors order. In the late Qing dynasty， Cixis photo diplomacy made "Wanxiu" gain fame in Europe and America and once again become a harbinger of the collapse of feudal ethics. In the rise and fall with the secular world， Ming and Qing Wanxiu assimilated the arts of various classes and the cultures of various ethnic groups and finally received due attention from the feudal ethics. Its development was another historical demonstration of the continuity of Chinese costumes through the changes of dynasties.

Key words： Ming and Qing dynasties; Wanxiu; female education; clan culture; ethnic fusion

封建社会中，男子便服以典章为准绳，由皇权订立;女子便服以伦理定范式，由观念塑造。女子便服遵循三从四德，自古以其琐屑被蔑于定制，也同时难以执法，这点以明代“民间妇人服色禁令”和清代“旗女汉妆禁令”的失效便可看出。挽袖作为女服的衣缘，是琐屑的、难成体统的，但挽袖文化研究的核心也正是在于通过看似无序的物质文化重新关照被正史所忽略的真实，复现明清时期不同民族、阶级境遇下女性境遇的时代变迁。……