陈研 张旭

摘要： 文章以苏东水乡地区为研究范围，以江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的作裙为实物基础，通过走访当地服饰工艺传人，对其所讲述和示范的作裙裁剪、缝制工艺进行图文记录、实验室复原。分析了作裙拼接的原因，“边叠边缝”的褶裥处理方式和“褶裥绣缝”的特殊工艺。在此基础上，一方面，从实用、审美、女红技艺等角度总结了作裙工艺的“稻作文化”内涵;另一方面，通过对比中原裙装的结构形制与制作工艺，突出其技艺的“独特性”“地域性”非遗文化特质;通过对比胜浦地区不同服饰工艺传人的制作技法与造物理念，体现其技艺的“稳定性”“活态性”非遗文化特质。

关键词： 苏东;作裙;妇女;裁剪;缝制;工艺

Abstract： The authors took of Sudong region of rivers and lakes as the range of research， and Zuoqun collected in the folk costume museum of Jiangnan University as the object to the reasons of Zuoqun stitching， the pleats technology of "folding it while seaming it"， and the special process of "fold embroidery stitch" through visiting the local clothing craft inheritors， recording both images and texts of the cutting and sewing techniques narrated and demonstrated by the inheritors， and restoring the material object. On the one hand， from the perspectives of practicability， aesthetics， needlework technology， the "rice culture" connotation of Zuoqun technology was summarized. On the other hand， through comparing the structure， shape and making skills of skirts in Central Plains， the intangible cultural heritage characteristics of "uniqueness" and "regionalism" were highlighted. The comparison of production techniques and creation ideas of the local clothing technology inheritors in Shengpu reflected the intangible cultural heritage characteristics of "stability" and "active state".

Key words： Sudong; Zuoqun; women; cutting; sewing; craft

蘇东水乡地区是指江苏苏州以东的甪直、胜浦、唯亭、渭塘、陆家、跨塘、斜塘、陆慕、蒌葑、锦溪、周庄、张浦、石浦等地。当地妇女的服饰就是在以水稻耕作为中心的生产与生活条件下，形成了极具江南水乡地域特色的“八件套”服饰，主要包括包头、撑包、拼接衫、穿腰作腰、作裙、拼裆裤、卷膀和绣鞋[1]。其中，作裙是该区域典型的妇女裙装形式，是当地妇女在“稻作生产”中不断摸索与发展中形成的，是“稻作文化”的反映，其传统裁剪缝制工艺技法值得传承。

目前，学术界对江南水乡民间妇女服饰在历史、形制、色彩与审美等方面的研究颇为丰富，但专门针对苏东水乡作裙的研究比较少，尤其是针对其裁剪缝制工艺的研究甚少。针对这一情况，笔者……