李斌 韩方静 梁文倩 李强

摘要： 《大学》中的相关句章蕴含丰富的纺织服饰信息，这些信息有丰富纺织服饰技术史断代和纺织文化的作用。文章结合纺织服饰考古，通过对《大学》之中的“斐”“缉”“孝”“机”进行字词训诂。研究认为：“有斐君子”之“斐”指服饰上的纹样，而“有斐君子”则是指君子着有纹样的服饰，起到规范行为的警醒作用;“於缉熙敬止”之“缉”乃绩茎皮纤维之意，而“缉熙”本意指纺纱之风蔚然，引申则是百姓知礼;“孝者，所以事君也”之“孝”与“教”形体有相同部分但却不同源，“教”的初形演变成今形是纺织技术技术进步但在社会生活中地位衰落的反映，深层次上与士人阶层兴起和孝文化的发展有关;“其机如此”之“机”初意并不是指织机，由此可推出中国古代杼与筘的出现应该是东汉后，远晚于传统文本的论述。

关键词： 《大学》;纺织服饰;“斐”;“缉”;“孝”;“机”

Abstract： Lots of information on textile and costume can be found in the relevant sentences of The Great Learning. The information helps to enrich the division of historical periods of textile technology and costume as well as textile culture. By making an exegesis of Chinese characters “斐” “缉” “孝” and “机” in The Great Learning as well as an archeology of textile and costume， the research drew a conclusion that： the word “斐” in “有斐君子” means the pattern on the costume， while “有斐君子” refers to a gentleman wearing clothes with a pattern， which plays a warning role of regulating behavior. The Chinese character “缉” in “於缉熙敬止” means bark fiber， while “缉熙” refers to general mood of spinning and extends to the meaning of civilization of people. The Chinese characters “孝” and “教” in “孝者，所以事君也” are similar in the form but have different origins. The evolution of the original form of Chinese character “教” into the present form reflects the decline of textile technology in social life despite its technological progress， which is profoundly related to the rise of scholar class and the development of filial culture. The Chinese character “机” in “其机如此” did not mean a loom originally， so it can be concluded that the shuttle and reed in ancient China should occur after the eastern Han dynasty， much later than the discussion in traditional texts.

Key words： The Great Learning; textile and costume; Chinese character “斐”; Chinese character “緝”; Chinese character “孝”; Chinese character “机”

《大学》相传为曾子（公元前505—前435年）所作，实为秦汉时儒家作品，自南宋大儒朱熹（公元1130—1200年）作《大学章句》后，从《小戴礼记》第四十二篇中独立出来，与《中庸》《论语》《孟子》并称“四书”，它对中国古代教育理论起到重要影响。一直以来关于《大学》的研究多围绕作者、成书、版本、篇名含义等问题展开[1]，没有涉及技术史包括纺织服饰技术史研究，但《大学》中有一些关于纺织服饰的信息还是值得玩味，仔细推敲还是十分有趣的。为此，本文对《大学》中的“斐”“缉”“孝”“机”展开研究。……