张婕 李正

摘要： 民国时期学生装的形制是东西方服饰文化碰撞与融合的产物，体现出“西风东渐”的社会历史特征和追求“民主平等”的近代服装发展趋势。文章以《妇女杂志》《良友》等民国时期报刊中的学生毕业集体照、人物传记照和民国《教育公报》刊登的学生制服规程为依据，采用文献查阅和对比分析等方法对学生装进行分类和归纳。通过对民国时期学生装不同形制的分析研究，总结近代学生装中西兼容的款式风格，并从社会、教育、思想文化和服装制作技术等角度探寻民国时期学生装形制多元化的成因。

关键词： 民国时期;学生装;多元化;形制;服饰文化;制服

中图分类号： TS941.12

文献标志码： B

Abstract： The forms of school uniforms during the Republic of China were the product of the collision and fusion between eastern and western clothing cultures. It showed the socio-historical characteristics of "the spread of western influences to the east" and the modern fashion trend to pursue "democracy and equality". Based on the graduation photos of students published in newspapers during the Republic of China， such as "LadiesJournal" and "the Young Companion"， biographical photos and student uniform regulations published in the "Education Bulletin" during the Republic of China， this paper classified and summarized school uniforms through literature review， comparative analysis and other methods， to analyze and examine different forms of school uniforms during the Republic of China， summarize the styles of modern school uniforms that were compatible with Chinese and Western styles， and explore the causes of diversified forms of school uniforms during the Republic of China from the perspectives of society， education， ideology and culture， and clothing production technology， etc.

Key words： the Republic of China; school uniforms; diversified; form; costume culture; unifor

近代中國传统农耕文明在西方工业革命的冲击下，被动顺应国际形势进行改革。民国时期国家的政治、经济、社会礼仪和生活方式等都从清代闭关锁国的孤立闭塞状态转变为开放交流的局面，服饰制度的改革就是其中的一个方面。从洋火、洋车、洋布的物质文明，到剪辫易服、民主、平等的精神文明;从纺织工业的技术创新，到教育开放的制度革新，近代民国社会的各方面在与西方文明的碰撞交融中逐渐“西化”。20世纪上半叶的中国社会服装既保留了中国传统服装的样式，又吸收了西服的形制结构，在东、西方服装形制相互交融的过程中推进了中国服装近现代化的发展。

学生装是由学生穿着统一款式且能体现学生群体身份的标识性服装。……