佟萌 李雪飞

摘要： 明代官服是明代服饰文化中“礼”的代表，具有区分等级，辨别尊卑的作用。官服体现了对唐、宋、元服饰的继承与创新，但实体文物展出具有时间与空间的局限，以图片资料为主的数字化资源只能从二维角度进行研究。文章以明代文武官员服装为例，研究其形制与结构特点。选取孔府旧藏中朝服、公服、常服，在复原其结构、面料纹样基础上进行三维建模与展示，提出成套服装的组合建模方法，得到明代文武官员服装完整的数字化复原效果。通过数字化复原明代官服，探寻实现中国古代服饰文化的传播之路。

关键词： 明代服饰;结构;服装建模;虚拟展示;孔府旧藏;成套服装;文化传播

中图分类号： TS941.26

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）12-0110-07

引用页码： 121301

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.12.018（篇序）

Abstract： The official robe of the Ming dynasty is the representative of "ritual" in traditional Ming costume culture， which plays a role in distinguishing the hierarchy between the superior and inferior， and reflects the inheritance and innovation of the Tang， Song and Yuan dynasties. However， as the exhibition of physical cultural relics is under spatial and temporal limitations， the digital resources mainly based on pictures can only be studied from a two-dimensional perspective. Taking the robe of civil and military officials in the Ming dynasty as an example， the shape， structure and characteristics were investigated in this paper. The ceremonial court dress， formal court dress and normal court dress in the old collection of Kong Family Mansion were selected to restore the structure， fabric patterns， for the subsequent 3D modelling and display. In this process， a combinatorial modeling approach for complete sets of clothing was proposed. The complete digital restoration effect of civil and military official robe was obtained in the end. Through the digital restoration of the official robe in the Ming dynasty， this study expects to explore the way to realize the dissemination of the ancient Chinese costume culture.

Key words： Ming costumes; structure; clothing modeling; virtual display; collections of Kong Family Mansion; complete sets of clothing; cultural transmission

對传统文化的保护与传承是国家研究的重点课题。中国传统服饰文化作为历史发展的载体，彰显了传统文化的“礼”与“俭”，标志着历史的变革与发展。但实体文物在展出时需要及时维护，且具有时间与空间的限制。随着虚拟现实技术的兴起，已有许多学者对基于三维虚拟展示软件的服饰复原进行了尝试，如对四川花苗女装[1]、乌珠穆沁部落蒙古袍[2]、羌族女装[3]等民族服饰的建模与复原。通过对服饰进行结构复原、面料处理，并在服装虚拟展示软件中进行三维建模，完成服装的虚拟效果展示。针对汉族服饰，张伟萌等[4]利用CLO软件，完成了汉服改良设计;杨若冰等[5]完成了一套宋代女装的设计与建模。……