刘志琴

摘要：针对中国华夏文化中有关服饰的独创性传统，通过文献分析法，对历史时期的服饰外形、设计理念、社会功能等进行分析论证。研究认为，中国人将服饰文化归源于黄帝，这是中华民族重祖法古的文化特色；中国历代都有《舆服制》《车服志》等法律规章来规范社会不同人群的衣着，等级管理制度注重突出社会价值，服饰代表身份地位是中国衣冠之治的传统；中国服饰文化的特色是承载着沉重的政治包袱，服饰是国家礼制的重要组成部分，通过服装穿戴进行社会管理，维护等级秩序是衣冠之治的内容；古代帝王的衣着要处处表现信奉的伦理教化，官员们用冠服表达职业理念和道德崇尚，衣衫在质料、色彩、款式、花纹等方面赋以天道、伦理、身份地位、品行情操等诸多涵义，服此服而思其理是衣冠之治的道德教化功能；孙中山创制的中山装注重卫生、方便、经济等理念，结束了传统的衣冠之治观念，应该成为汉服运动中关注的重要理念。

关键词：礼制；伦理教化；等级秩序；道德教化；社会管理

中图分类号：TS941

文献标志码：A文章编号：16716248（2017）03000107

Abstract： In view of the originality of costume in Chinese culture， the appearance， design concept and social function of costume in historical period was analyzed and demonstrated by literature analysis method. The research shows that Chinese people attribute costume culture to Yellow Emperor， which reflects the characteristics of Chinese culture； Chinese past dynasties have Yu Fu Zhi， Che Fu Zhi and other laws and regulations to specify the clothing of different groups of people， hierarchical management system emphasizes the social value， and costume which represents peoples status is the tradition of Chinese costume system； the features of Chinese costume culture carry the heavy political baggage， and costume is an important part of national etiquette. Conducting social management and maintaining hierarchical order by clothing is the main content of costume system； ancient emperors clothing needs to show the ethical cultivation in all aspects， and officials express their professional ideas and moral worship by using their clothing. Clothes in the aspects of material， color， style and pattern endow the natural law， ethics， status and behaviors with many meanings. Having clothes and then considering their reasons is moral cultivation function of costume system； Chinese tunic suits created by SUN Yatsen emphasize the concepts of health， convenience and economy， and make the traditional concepts of costume system come to an end， which should become an important concept in Han Chinese clothing movement.

Key words： ritual system； ethical cultivation； hierarchical order； moral cultivation； social management[GK-2！-2]

[HT]

“華夏”是汉族的古称，这是一个光辉灿烂的称谓，“华”在古代与“花”同义，古诗有“皇皇者华”“灼灼叶中华”的嘉言美语；“夏”是高大巍峨的仪态风貌，因此《左传》记述：“中国有礼仪之大故称夏，有服章之美谓之华。”

“衣冠文物之邦”是中华民族的荣耀，“衣裳”更不寻常。众所周知，在中国人的心目中，“民以食为天”这一古训，把人人都要吃饭这一寻常事推崇为天理，进入至高无上的信念，然而这“以食为天”的观念，若与服装排座次，仍然屈居其后，殊不见“衣食住行”以“衣”为首的排列，就充分显示服装优先的地位。……