王志成 崔荣荣 牛犁

摘要： 文章针对民国时期出现的手工编结特色旗袍，采用文献记载、图像视读及工艺复原等方法对其起源、工艺、价值、发展等问题展开研究。考证得出：手工编结旗袍由民国编结大师冯秋萍女士始创于1939年9月，代表性款式有“赛方格呢编结旗袍”等;编结工艺方式除材料及工具选择外，先后经“前身—中腰—大襟—后身—立领—滚边—系结”7步工序，以“自下而上、由前到后”方式手工编结。研究指出：编结旗袍的创制不仅使旗袍的面料、工艺及造型艺术等更加丰富多元，亦是民国女性延续传统女红文化的重要载体，是民国女性服饰创新的重要实例。虽然手工编结的方式效率低下，与当时“去手工化”主旋律相悖，未能在民国以后大规模流行流通;但是现代市场中出现的机织旗袍解决了工业化的技术问题，为未来针织旗袍的广泛流行提供了可能。

关键词： 民国时期;编结旗袍;创制;工艺工序;创新价值;女红文化

中图分类号： TS941.12

文献标志码： B

Abstract： For hand-knitted cheongsam during the Republic of China， this paper studies its origin， process， value and development， etc. by using the methods of literature review， image reading and craft restoration， etc. The textual research indicated that the hand-knitted cheongsam was founded in September 1939 by Ms. Feng Qiuping， a knitting master during the Republic of China， and the representative styles included "knitted plaid cheongsam"， etc. In addition to the selection of materials and tools， the process included seven steps： "front-waist-front opening-back-stand collar-rolloff-tying"， and it is hand-knitted in a "bottom-up and front-to-back" manner. Our research points out that the creation of knitted cheongsam not only enriches and diversifies the fabric， process and modeling art of cheongsam， but also serves as an important carrier for women during the Republic of China to inherit the traditional needlework culture and an important example of innovation of womens clothing during the Republic of China. Although the way of hand-knitting was inefficient， contrary to the main theme of "de-manualization" at that time， and failed to be widely spread and circulated after the Republic of China， the emergence of woven cheongsam in the modern market solved the technical problem of industrialization and made it possible for knitted cheongsam to prevail in the future.

Key words： the Republic of China; knitted cheongsam; creation; technological process; innovation value; needlework culture

针织是利用织针把各种原料和品种的纱线构成线圈、再经串套连接成针织物的工艺技术及过程，具体分为手工针织（即编织）、机器针织两类。相较梭织物，针织物质地松软、弹性优良且具有较好的透气性，穿着舒适性强。在2018年国家博物馆举办的《伟大的变革——庆祝改革开放40周年大型展览》中，由东华大学时尚科创团队原创的两款“科技旗袍”亮相。一款便是采用柔软、弹性的针织面料研发出的“针织变色科技旗袍”。……