吴艳华 林丽 杨勤 阳明庆 郭主恩 李汶潼

摘要： 针对传统服饰体验设计评价中缺乏刺绣的感性意象研究，文章提出一种黎平县苗侗民族服饰刺绣绣种意象贴合度分档方法。首先，收集代表性刺绣品种制作实物，基于KE和AB式视触觉评价模式划分绣种的意象群并提取代表性意象词对，进而采集主观评价数据;其次，使用GAR法计算绣种意象评价值与参考值之间的关联度，剖析绣种意象组成方式;接着，融合RSR法构建分档回归方程，得到绣种意象贴合度分档结果;最后，综合结果判别绣种的意象趋势及状态，以辅助设计师根据目标意象运用不同刺绣品种进行服饰设计和商家向消费者推荐符合其意象需求的刺绣产品。

关键词： GRA-RSR法;感性工学;民族服饰刺绣;绣种意象;贴近度;刺绣品种

中图分类号： TS101.91;J523.6

文献标志码： A

Abstract： In view of the current situation of a lack of research on the perceptual images of embroidery in the evaluation of traditional costume experience design， this paper proposes a method to classify fit degrees between images and embroidery varieties of Miao-Dong ethnic costumes in Liping county. First of all， representative embroidery varieties were collected to make physical objects， the image groups of embroidery varieties were divided according to KE and AB visual and tactile evaluation modes， representative image word pairs were extracted， and then subjective evaluation data were collected. Secondly， the GAR method was used to calculate the correlation between the evaluation value of embroidery image and the reference value， and the composition method of embroidery images was analyzed. After that， the RSR method was used to construct a regression equation of classification， and the classification results of the fit degrees between images and embroidery varieties were obtained. Finally， the image trend and status of embroidery varieties were judged by synthesizing the results， so as to assist the designer to use different embroidery varieties to design costumes and according to the target image and also assist the merchants to recommend embroidery products to consumers which satisfy their image requirements.

Key words： GRA-RSR method; kansei engineering; ethnic costume embroidery; embroidery-image; fit degree; embroidery varieties

黎平县是一个以苗族、侗族为主的少数民族聚集地，位于贵州省的东南方向，与湖南、广西两地接壤。长期原始、质朴的生活方式，使得黎平县少数民族服饰刺绣具有鲜明的民族特色和强烈的地域文化特征。精湛的刺绣工艺、大胆的用色和富有思想内涵的图案，形成当地独具特色的服饰设计风格[1]，刺绣作为服饰设计中最具装饰效果的要素之一，不同的刺绣品种可以诱发人们产生丰富的视觉和别样的触觉感受。

随着服饰装饰设计多样与个性化的发展，消费者在消费过程中不再满足于款式、色彩、材质的基本需求，逐渐注重视、触等多知觉与大脑记忆组成的感性体验设计。……