付雅雯 梁惠娥 邢乐

摘要： 京杭运河作为明清时期国家的交通大动脉，对江南服饰时尚的传播具有重要作用。文章整理了清代江南服饰时尚的发展脉络，并基于“5W”传播理论选取与运河密切相关的漕运旗丁、运河商人、外国运河旅行者三种人群作为传播者，分析京杭运河影响下清代江南服饰时尚传播的途径及其原因。研究表明：清代江南运河沿线服饰时尚的传播途径包括商品流通的贸易传播、社交网络的人际传播、纸质媒介的大众传播;漕运政策、财富积累和社会流动分别是服饰时尚传播的制度支撑、经济支柱和推动力量。

关键词： 京杭运河;清代;贸易传播;人际传播;大众传播;江南时尚

Abstract： As a national traffic artery in the Ming and Qing dynasties， the Beijing-Hangzhou canal plays an important role in the spread of Jiangnan fashion. This paper sorts out the development process of Jiangnan fashion in the Qing dynasty， selects three groups of people that are closely related to the canal， that is， tribute troops， canal merchants and foreign canal travelers， as communicators， based on the "5W" communication theory， and analyzes the communication paths and genesis of Jiangnan fashion in the Qing dynasty under the influence of Beijing-Hangzhou canal. The results show that： the communication paths of Jiangnan fashion along the canal in the Qing dynasty include trade communication of circulation of commodities， interpersonal communication of social network， and mass communication of paper media; while water transportation policies， wealth accumulation， and social mobility are institutional support， economic pillar and driving force for the spread of Jiangnan fashion respectively.

Key words： Beijing-Hangzhou canal; Qing dynasty; trade communication; interpersonal communication; mass communication; Jiangnan

明清时期京杭运河承担了漕粮北运的重要任务，而漕运则带动了运河沿线城市商品经济的蓬勃发展。沿线区域逐渐在社会风尚、文明程度等方面领先于非运河区域，特别是清代江南地区，还掀起了一股引领服饰时尚的潮流。学术界对于“明清江南服饰时尚”的研究早有关注，许星[1]基于竹枝词总结了清代苏州地区服饰时尚的特征及文化意蕴;范金民[2]从服饰、饮食、器物、戏曲、书画等生活方式和行为方式探究，认为明清苏州引领时尚潮流;安东篱等[3]结合清代扬州小说笔记，讨论了当时扬州的服饰生产与消费，认为在世界贸易的背景下扬州服饰具有时尚、快速更迭的特点，扬州是清代服饰时尚的中心城市。但是却少有谈及江南服饰时尚与京杭运河的关系，京杭运河作为清廷贯通南北的交通大动脉，对于江南服饰时尚的传播具有非常重要的意义。……