陈文苗 刘成霞

摘要： 为探究同时测试织物弯曲性和悬垂性的方法，文章以24块常见机织物为研究对象，分别用斜面悬臂梁法和圆台法测试抗弯刚度和悬垂系数，之后自行设计悬挂穿孔法测试装置并进行实验，提取得到四项特征指标：侧轮廓面积、底轮廓面积、载荷峰差值、峰值膨胀角。相关分析和回归分析的结果表明：悬挂穿孔法可以同时测量织物弯曲性和悬垂性，且四项特征指标都与抗弯刚度、悬垂系数具有高度相关性，得到的两个回归方程可用于预测织物整体的抗弯刚度和悬垂系数。悬挂穿孔法只用一块试样就能综合表达织物整体的弯曲悬垂性，既节约测试时间，又节省测试面料。

关键词： 织物;弯曲性悬垂性;抗弯刚度;悬垂系数;悬挂穿孔法

中图分类号： TS101.923

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 10017003（2021）08004007

引用页码： 081108

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.08.008（篇序）

Measurement of fabric bending and draping properties by hanging & perforating method

CHEN Wenmiaoa， LIU Chengxiaa，b，c

（a.School of Fashion Design & Engineering; b.Zhejiang Province Engineering Laboratory of Clothing Digital Technology;c.Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology， Ministry of Culture and Tourism，Zhejiang Sci-Tech University， Hangzhou 310018， China）

Abstract： To investigate fabric bending and draping properties， as well as relevant measurement methods， 24 common woven fabric were selected as the research object. Then， the bending rigidity and draping coefficient were tested using method of cantilever beam on bevel and circular table. Next， a hanging & perforating testing device was designed for the experiment. As a result， four indexes were extracted： lateral outline area， bottom outline basal area， the difference of load peak value with original value， the flare angle with a peak value. Results of correlation analysis and regression analysis indicate that hanging & perforating method can be used to test fabric bending and draping properties simultaneously. And the four indexes are highly correlated with bending rigidity and draping coefficient. Finally， two regression equations obtained can be used to predict the fabric overall bending rigidity and draping coefficient. The hanging & perforating method can comprehensively reflect fabric overall bending and draping properties only by means of a fabric sample. It can save both the testing time and the testing fabric.

Key words： fabric; bending & draping properties; bending rigidity; draping coefficient; hanging & perforating method

收稿日期： 20210301;

修回日期： 20210712

基金項目： 浙江省自然科学基金项目（LY20E050017）

作者简介： 陈文苗（1996），女，硕士研究生，研究方向为纺织服装检测技术。通信作者：刘成霞，教授，glorior_liu@163.com。

弯曲性和悬垂性是影响和决定织物外观、风格的重要属性，其测试方法一直受到纺织学者的广泛关注[1]。目前最常用的方法是斜面悬臂梁法测弯曲性和圆台法测悬垂性，近年来众多科技工作者利用新科技与新装置探究和优化织物弯曲性、悬垂性的测试方法，如利用织物弯曲形态曲线[2]、水滴法[3]及KES-FB型织物风格仪[4]测试织物弯曲性;运用3D扫描技术[5]、三维形态立体测试法[6]及结合神经网络深度学习[7]测织物悬垂性等。……