王新泉 董瑞兰

摘 要：为解决弹力丝集圈连接的双面织物制成率不高的问题，开发设计了一种利用本色纱线交替集圈方式替代AB两色加丝连接的双面织物结构。对弹力丝连续集圈和本色纱交替集圈连接的两种双面织物的编织方法进行对比分析，绘制结构图和编织图。采用本色纱交替集圈，将前后床AB两种不同颜色的成圈线圈进行连接，改变弹力丝在同一行上连续集圈的传统编织方法。结果表明：利用本色纱线交替集圈连接正反面AB两种不同颜色的双面织物，在外观上与弹力丝连续集圈连接的双面织物完全相同，且具有无异色、平整度高、尺寸稳定性好等优点，编织效率高，制成率提升。

关键词：电脑横机;AB两色双面织物;连续集圈连接;交替集圈连接

中图分类号：TS184.1  文献标志码：A

文章编号：1009-265X（2021）03-0035-05

Abstract： In order to solve the problem of low production rate of double-sided fabric with elastic yarn tucking connection， a double-sided fabric structure instead of AB two-color silk connection was developed and designed by using the alternate tucking collection mode of natural color yarn. By comparing and analyzing the weaving methods of two kinds of double-sided fabrics connected by continuous tucking of stretch yarn and alternating tucking of natural color yarn， the structure drawing and weaving drawing were drawn. The knitting coils of two different colors of the front and rear bed were connected by the alternate tucking of the natural color yarn， changing the traditional weaving method of continuous tucking of the stretch yarn on the same line. The results show that the double-sided fabrics with two different colors of AB on both sides connected by alternate tucking of the natural color yarn are identical to the double-sided fabric connected by continuous tucking of the stretch yarn in appearance， and there are the advantages of the same color， high flatness， good dimensional stability， high knitting efficiency and production rate improvement.

Key words：computerized flat knitting machine; AB two-color double-sided fabric; continuous tucking connection; alternate tucking connection

近些年，随着电脑横编机的快速发展，纵观市场中的双面织物产品，正面显露A色反面显露B色或正面显露B色反面显露A色的织物结构，大部分生产企业还是采用弹力丝前后床连续集圈的编织形式，将前后床两种不同颜色的线圈紧密连接。在实际编织过程中，由于弹力丝本身较细和强力不足，再加上目前电脑横机挑纱、送纱装置精密度不够等因素，弹力丝在经过横机挑纱、送纱张力时，受人为或环境等其他外在因素的影响，经常出现弹力丝断裂后，报警器装置不灵敏，未能及时报警停机，造成下机织物很难被发现弹力丝断裂，部分线圈未被有效连接，最后经过多道工序流转制作出成品后才被发现织物表面凹凸不平、起皱等现象，给企业造成产品质量不合格率和降等率的上升。……