起源于宋代的宋锦，穿越千年时光，在苏州上久楷丝绸科技文化有限公司的创新发展下，散发出时尚现代的魅力。北京APEC、杭州G20峰会、阿斯塔纳世博会、金砖峰会等国际性会议上都可以看到上久楷宋锦产品的身影，成为了中国丝绸行业的一张靓丽名片。本刊专访吴江鼎盛丝绸有限公司、苏州上久楷丝绸科技文化有限公司董事长吴建华，看上久楷怎样创新助推丝绸产业、非遗文化技艺的传承和发展。

Song brocade， which originated in the Song Dynasty， has thousands of years history. With the innovation and development of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology and Culture Co.， Ltd.， it is full with fashionable and modern charm. Shangjiukai Song brocade products were seen in Beijing APEC， Hangzhou G20 Summit， Astana World Expo， BRICS Summit and other international conferences， becoming a beautiful business card of Chinese silk industry.

CT：請您先介绍一下贵公司在面料、工艺和设计上的特色和理念。

吴建华：上久楷在面料、工艺和设计上的特色是将宋锦非遗技艺融入时尚元素，使得我们的宋锦成为一种文化符号，融入生活的方方面面。同时让非遗宋锦变得更加时尚也是我们一贯秉承的理念，在弘扬中国传统文化上作出自己的贡献。

CT：纺织品和纺织工艺是多种多样的，贵公司为什么会专注于中国传统的宋锦面料的工艺研发设计？

吴建华：宋锦对我们来说不仅仅是中华文化，更是世界的瑰宝，作为深耕丝绸行业多年的从业者来说，如果非遗宋锦在我们这代人手中消亡那将是莫大的罪过，所以我们一定要肩负起传承和保护的责任；而且在发掘保护的过程中，我们也努力地让宋锦更好的可持续发展起来，宋锦的独特的魅力，让我们看到了它内在的文化价值和产业化的商业价值。

CT：与其他工艺相比，宋锦在设计研发上有什么难点，目前技术产业化的成果怎样？

吴建华：原先的手工宋锦每天只能织出6厘米而已，生产效率很低，加上门幅只有70厘米，制作花本和更换花型极度复杂导致近代没有企业在宋锦产业化和规模化上有很大的突破。直到2012年，我们经过不断试验，改造出世界上第一台现代化宋锦织机后，生产效率才得到大幅度提升。在成为了宋锦国家标准的第一起草单位后，我们利用宋锦耐磨性好、图案立体感强的优势，又创造性地将其应用在箱包、服装、家纺、工艺品等领域并且获得了多项发明专利；我们生产的宋锦产品多次入选北京APEC、杭州G20峰会、阿斯塔纳世博会、金砖峰会、博鳌论坛、上合组织峰会、江苏发展大会等大型活动。

CT：您怎么看待宋锦的研发空间和时尚趋势，未来贵公司的设计研发方向是什么？

吴建华：未来我们将在宋锦的新工艺上做出更多的突破，利用新材料结合桑蚕丝在应用开发和功能性上做一系列大胆的探索，把中国传统文化与国际时尚元素紧密贴合，让宋锦更具有独特的国潮魅力。

CT：在国潮兴起、中国式美学回归的当下，您认为传统的面料、非遗工艺是否迎来复兴契机，您在这方面哪些思考，对行业同仁们有什么建议？

吴建华：迎着“一带一路”春风 宋锦的传承和发扬可以寻找到更好的生长土壤，经典时尚的面料及设计和蕴含的民族特色与文化内涵相互结合，让时尚变得更有文化，让文化变得更加时尚；在国潮流行趋势下也会有更好，更时尚的发展空间。

希望丝绸行业的同仁能在丝绸创新上多做大胆的尝试，在利用现代科技进步的优势下，充分挖掘纺织非遗的文化内涵底蕴和独特的技艺，打造出符合时尚潮流的丝绸文化产品，同时在文化融合与品牌打造中有更大的贡献。

CT： Could you introduce the features and concepts of your fabric， techniques and designing？

Wu Jianhua： Shangjiukai’s characteristics in fabric， craft and design is to integrate Song brocade intangible heritage techniques into fashion elements， making Song brocade become a cultural symbol， integrated into every aspect of life. At the same time， we always uphold the idea of making Song brocade more fashionable， and make our own contribution to the promotion of traditional Chinese culture.

CT： There are versatile textiles and textile technologies， why are you concentrated on the R&D of Song brocade fabric？

Wu Jianhua： Song brocade is not only the Chinese culture to us， but also the treasure of the world. As a practitioner who has been deeply involved in the silk industry for many years， it would be a great sin if Song brocade dies in our generation， so we must shoulder the responsibility of inheritance and protection. Moreover， in the process of excavation and protection， we also strive to develop the industry better and sustainable. Its unique charm lets us see its both cultural value and commercial value.

CT： Compared with other techniques， are there any difficulties in designing on the Song brocade？ What achievements have been made currently？

Wu Jianhua： Song brocade can weave 6 centimeters by hand a day， which is very inefficient， and the width is only 70 centi-meters. Changing patterns are extremely complicated， which cannot lead to a great breakthrough in industrialization in modern times. It was not until 2012 that we transformed the world’s first modern Song brocade loom through continuous experiments， and the production efficiency was greatly improved. After becoming the first drafting unit of the national standard of Song brocade， we took advantage of its good wear resistance and strong three-dimensional sense， and creatively applied it to bags， clothing， home textiles， handicrafts and other fields and obtained a number of invention patents. Our products have been selected for many large-scale events such as Beijing APEC， Hangzhou G20 Summit， Astana World Expo， BRICS Summit， Boao Forum， SCO Summit and Jiangsu Development Conference.

CT： What’s your opinion on the R&D and fashion trend of Song brocade？

Wu Jianhua： In the future， we will do more works in Song brocade new technology， make a series of explorations in application development and functionality by using new materials and mulberry silk， and closely integrate Chinese traditional culture with international fashion elements， so as to make Song brocade have a unique Chinese charm.

CT： With the tides of Chinese aesthetics， what are the opportunities for traditional fabrics and intangible technologies？ And what suggestions do you have for the industry practitioners？

Wu Jianhua： With the breeze of "the Belt and Road initiative"， the inheritance and development of Song brocade will find a better growing soil. The combination of classic fashionable fabrics and designs and cultural connotations， making culture rejuvenated with vitality. There will be a better and more fashionable development space under the current national trend. We hope that people who work in the silk industry do more attempts in silk innovation， at the same time make greater contributions to cultural integration and brand building.