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香云纱与艺术,一个德国设计师的质朴生活

2021-01-22

China Textile 2021年6期
关键词:设计

她是首位获得“中国纺织非遗友谊大使”称号的国际友人;她将中式质感的香云纱融入西式的裁剪与风格,设计华贵儒雅;她曾多次受邀参加中央美术学院、中国丝绸博物馆、英国V&A博物馆、北京时装周,是当之无愧的艺术家。她就是德国服装设计师凯瑟琳·冯·瑞星博(Kathrin von Rechenberg)。

凯瑟琳与香云纱的相遇十分偶然。2000年,已经在Christian Dior、Chanel、Christian Lacroix等多个巴黎高级时装屋工作过的凯瑟琳,在朋友的介绍下只身来到中国,开启了自己的香云纱之旅,并创立了以自己名字命名的品牌rechenberg art couture。20多年来,几乎是靠口口相传而被大众熟知的rechenberg,以其独具特色的服装风格和可持续、传承中华非遗的理念,收获了众多国内外顧客的青睐。

一年将尽,新一年正启,本刊记者来到了位于北京前门大街的rechenberg,听凯瑟琳为我们讲述她的故事。

She is the first foreigner who won the title of "China Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage Friendship Ambassador"; she blends Chinese Xiangyunsha(also known as gambiered canton silk) into western tailoring and style, and the design is full of luxurious and elegant; she has been invited to participate in many exhibitions of Central Academy of Fine Arts, China Silk Museum, British V&A Museum, Beijing Fashion Week, etc. She is a well-deserved artist. She is the German fashion designer Kathrin von Rechenberg.

The encounter between Kathrin and Xiangyunsha was purely accidental. In 2000, Kathrin, who had worked in several Paris haute couture houses such as Christian Dior, Chanel, Christian Lacroix, etc., came to China alone with the introduction of her friend, started her own journey of finding Xiangyun yarn. Later, she founded same name brand rechenberg art couture. For more than 20 years, rechenberg, which is almost known to the public by word of mouth, has won the favor of many domestic and foreign customers with its unique clothing style and the concept of sustainable and intangible cultural heritage.

At the end of the year, we came to rechenberg in Beijing Qianmen Street in particular, to listen to Kathrin tell us her story.

CT:很多人都说rechenberg的服装具有一种非常独特的东方韵味,作为一个外国人,您怎么理解中国文化并运用在自己的品牌中?

凯瑟琳:中国文化对我来说最大的启发就是人与自然的连接。我在中国生活了20多年,使用的都是中国的面料,所以肯定具有一些中式的风格。使用香云纱的过程给了我很多灵感。首先是技术上的灵感。因为香云纱有两面,所以我一直在想如何让服装两面都可以穿。然后是裁剪和植物染等。我不想浪费面料,所以就使用整个宽幅的面料做衣服。其次香云纱教会了我要耐心。制作香云纱需要很长时间。起初我非常着急,不明白为什么不能很快拿到我的面料,但现在我特别理解,因为香云纱的制作受天气的限制。……

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