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把古老的植物染,带进现代时尚生活

2021-01-22

China Textile 2021年6期
关键词:植物工艺产品

非遗匠心,光耀东方。近日,愉悦YUE BAST首席设计师王恕儿以作品“万物幻彩染华章”在北京时装周上奉献了一场东方美学创意大秀。秀演作品融入了敦煌色系的色彩元素,以色彩变幻的桑蚕丝面料呈现简约而典雅的设计,廓形收腰等工艺加上天然面料的飘逸感,使得作品展现出灵动脱俗之美。

秀演充分延续和体现了愉悦YUE BAST独到的工艺和产品特点——植物染色和幻彩面料。愉悦通过与中纺院江南分院及其特聘专家、植物染色非遗传承人黄荣华合作,共同致力于植物染料与工艺的产业化技术攻关,从而将中国非遗传统工艺结合当代时尚设计,输出传承传统文化的现代产品。

“Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage, Brilliance in the Orient” creative Hanfu show was held in Beijing’s new cultural landmark Longfu Cultural Square recently during Beijing Fashion Week. Wang Shuer, chief designer of YUE BAST, presented a creative show of Oriental aesthetics with her work. The color of clothing blends into the elements of Dunhuang, obtains color inspiration from nature, and presents the smart and refined beauty of this collection with simple and elegant silhouette and natural fabrics such as mulberry silk.

The show fully continued and reflected the unique process and product characteristics of YUE BAST — plant dyeing and multicolor fabrics. The works released adopt the plant dyeing technology jointly developed by the Jiangnan Branch of CTA and Mr. Huang Ronghua, distinguished expert, and the inheritor of the plant dyeing intangible cultural heritage, which combines the ancient traditional dyeing and printing process with modern industry, and develops modern fashion products with traditional culture.

CT:作為本届北京时装周开幕秀参与品牌,请介绍一下本次秀演的灵感来源和设计理念?

王恕儿:本次秀演的设计灵感来自敦煌壁画,加入现代元素与之相融合。我们用色彩变幻的桑蚕丝面料呈现设计,用收腰廓形的工艺与飘逸感的天然面料相结合,追求一种灵动出尘的美。

此外,这套系列成衣色彩全部来自纯天然植物染料,工艺既有面料染色,也有手工成衣染色。同时运用的素染、绞缬、吊染渐变等多种染色技艺,应该说呈现了当今比较高超的植物染技艺水平。

为了准备这次秀演,我们从面料的纹织结构到染色设计都是从零开始着手,所有产品都是第一次发布,希望将中国纺织非遗传统工艺与当代时尚设计结合,注重继承与创新,呈现出我们中国传统文化的自信。……

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