陈钰丹 张佳蔚 张毅 徐亚平

摘要： 挽袖是清代服饰中特有的袖口设计，具有装饰与功能的双重价值，在女服中使用甚多，是清代袖饰设计中的一朵奇葩。文章通过文献研读法、图像分析法，对清代挽袖的发展过程和艺术特征进行研究，并厘清其兴起与衰亡的原因，有利于更全面地呈现挽袖的历史价值。分析表明：挽袖是清中后期满汉女服互仿与缘饰艺术发展背景下的产物，常与镶、滚技艺结合使用，其制作工艺的精细程度能反映出穿着之人的社会地位，然而随着清代的灭亡与民国女性平权意识的提升，挽袖逐渐沦为用来收藏的画幅。

关键词： 清代;挽袖;服装设计;缘饰艺术;女服;纹样

中图分类号： TS941.11

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）01010006

引用页码： 011203

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.01.015（篇序）

Analysis on development and artistic features of the upturned sleeves in the Qing dynasty

CHEN Yudan， ZHANG Jiawei， ZHANG Yi， XU Yaping

（School of Design， Jiangnan University， Wuxi 214122， China）

Abstract：

The upturned sleeves are a special design of cuff in the Qing dynasty， which have double value of decoration and function. It was widely used in womens clothing as a kind of marvelous decoration in the Qing dynasty. By using the methods of literature research and image analysis， the authors studied the development and artistic features of the upturned sleeves in the Qing dynasty， and clarify the reasons for its rise and decline so as to overall present the historical value of upturned sleeves. The analysis shows that the upturned sleeves is a product of the mutual imitation of Manchu and Han womens clothing and the development of edge decoration art in the middle and later period of the Qing dynasty. Upturned sleeves were often combined with inlaying and rolling techniques， and the fineness degree of the craftsmanship could reflect social status. However， with the demise of the Qing dynasty and the promotion of female equality consciousness in the Republic of China， upturned sleeves gradually became pictures for collection.

Key words：

the Qing dynasty; upturned sleeves; fashion design; edge decoration art; womens clothing; pattern design

清代李斗在《扬州画舫录》有过这样的记载：“女衫以二尺八寸为长，袖广尺二，外护袖以锦绣镶之。”即指挽袖[1]，也可称为护袖，属于可拆卸的接袖部分，穿时翻出在外，露出繁缛华丽的工艺图案，兼具有装饰性与功能性。由于挽袖的形状多为规正的长方形，使用方式又比较固定，只有纹样千变万化，故目前对挽袖的诸多研究中，主要侧重的还是挽袖的纹样方向，或是在对清代服饰进行研究时简单地提及挽袖，而甚少探究挽袖的兴起原因、文化背景。本文選择对挽袖的源起、发展及艺术特征进行研究，一方面，是对目前挽袖的相关研究进行补充，以期一叶知秋般一窥清代繁缛的缘饰艺术;另一方面，挽袖这方寸之间的艺术呈现出了内容丰富的画面与多姿多彩的工艺手法，对当代的相关设计也有一定的参考意义。……