丛洪莲+范思齐+董智佳

摘要：随着消费者对运动面料舒适性、功能性的追求，功能性经编运动面料的开发变得尤为重要。本文从原料、织造技术及后整理技术 3 方面入手，阐述了功能性经编运动面料产品的开发方法；同时详细地介绍了功能性运动面料的开发现状，主要包括舒适类、耐疲劳类、卫生保健类及防护类功能面料；最后，预测了功能性经编运动面料的发展趋势，提出了经编运动面料将向功能更加多样化、优异化，用途更加专业化，面料更加时尚化的方向发展。

关键词：经编；运动面料；功能性；开发现状；发展趋势

中图分类号：TS186.1 文献标志码：A

Development and Trend of Warp-knitted Functional Sportswear Fabric

Abstract： Along with peoples pursuit of comfortable and functional sportswear fabric， the development of functional warp-knitted sportswear fabric has become particularly important. The method for developing warp-knitted functional fabric for sportswear was introduced in this article from three aspects， raw materials， warp-knitting technology and finishing technology. And the development status of sportswear fabric was introduced in details by discussing major categories of such fabric including comfortable， anti-fatigue， hygienic & health care and protective categories. Finally， the developing trend of functional warp-knitted sportswear fabric was forecast. It states that warp-knitted sportswear fabric will develop towards more diversified and excellent， more professional and more fashionable.

Key words： warp-knitting； sportswear fabric； functionality； development status； developing trend

經编面料具有良好的透气性、舒适性、结构稳定、不易脱散等特点，通过选用弹性原料交织可使面料获得优良的弹性，利用组织结构的变化可获得面料所需透气及透湿性，因此经编面料常用于制作运动服，如泳衣、田径服、体操服、篮球服等，方便运动过程中伸展且舒适性优良。经编运动面料中常用的经编组织有经编平布、经编绒布、经编网眼布、仿皮革类经编外衣面料（如麂皮绒）以及贾卡类花色面料。随着生活水平的提高及对运动效果的追求，普通的经编运动面料已不能满足需求，消费者更加注重面料的功能性，尤其是运动类面料，运动过程中对织物的吸湿快干、保暖、消臭、防紫外线、除菌等性能要求不断提高。目前，功能性经编面料主要包括吸湿排汗类、抗菌除臭类、耐疲劳类、防辐射抗紫外线类、保健类、抗静电类等。……