摘要：现在工业化的纺纱方式为环锭纺、转杯纺和喷气纺。每种纺纱技术都有其典型的纱线结构，纱线结构决定了纱线的特性及下游和最终纺织品的特性。具有更好手感的面料无疑采用精梳环锭纺纱线。为了生产柔软转杯纱，捻度设置要低，并且在织物整理过程中需要采取一定的辅助措施。通过采用新一代纺纱箱和纺纱组件，转杯纺具有很大的潜力来减小捻度，这也是针织物获得柔软手感的基本先决条件。喷气纺正从100%粘胶纱向新的应用领域针织用混纺棉纱和100%精梳纱发展。这都是对传统环锭纺纱线柔软性的挑战。本研究针对转杯纺和喷气纺织物采用不同方法去实现与环锭纺纱织物相当手感的织物。该项研究在转杯纺和喷气纺高产低成本方面也有一定价值。

关键词：环锭纺；转杯纺；喷气纺；纱线结构；手感

中图分类号：TS186 文献标志码：B

Impact on Fabric Hand on Knitted Fabric Made of Ring， Rotor and Air-jet Yarn

Abstract： Today ring， rotor and air-jet spinning system are commercially used for yarn production. Each spinning technology creates a typical yarn structure. This yarn structure determines the characteristics of the yarn itself， the characteristics in downstream processing and finally of the subsequent textile product. Textile fabrics with the better hand can be undoubtedly produced from combed ring yarn. In order to manufacture a soft rotor yarn， the twist factor must be set low and supportive measures need to be undertaken in textile finishing. Rotor spinning has a great potential to reduce the twist factor， which is the basic prerequisite for the production of knitted fabric with a soft touch， by support of a new spin box generation of and its components. The air-jet spinning system is now moving from 100% CV into new applications like CO blends and 100% CO combed for knitting. The challenge is to compete the softness of a conventional ring yarn. The main objective of this study are the different ways to achieve comparative fabric hand of fabric made up of rotor yarn， air-jet yarn compared to fabric made up of ring yarn at different stages. This evaluation will support to exploit the potential of rotor and air-jet spinning in terms of its higher productivity， lower conversion costs at the same time.

Key words： ring spinning； rotor spinning； air-jet spinning； yarn structure； hand value

织物手感是决定纺织品是否消费者欢迎的一个基本因素，所以手感是织物风格的重要评价指标。但是手感是一个心理学现象，手感的评价需要借助于一种量化方法来进行区分和表达，一般认为主观评价受到个人主观因素的影响。传统上服装面料的性能由纺织和服装领域的专家进行评定，但是假定织物的手感很大程度上受到纱线手感的影响，以这种假定为前提，可以在生产过程中更早地进行织物某种属性的评定，这样可以节约时间和成本。纱线的定义为由短纤维或者长丝加捻或者不加捻而组成的具有一定长度和细度的产品。……