摘要：

针对张择端版《清明上河图》所绘百工服饰形制基本特征缺少归纳研究的问题，以及其形制渊源被指向胡服的存疑，应用横向比较归纳法、纵向比较溯源法并结合文献实证，对该图及相关比较图像中的代表形象进行探讨、考证，得出其百工服饰基本形制为衣裤装及其不应源于胡服的结论。研究表明：百工衣裤装形制有长衣长裤、短衣短裤、短衣长裤三大类型，亦即衣裤装;衣裤装应为中原固有而非自胡服;“胡服骑射”并不能佐证衣裤装源于胡服的观点，而另有内涵，即着衣裤装并配革靴、革带用于骑射;小袖圆领短衣形制的胡服应是中原衣裤装影响之结果。

关键词：

《清明上河图》;百工;衣裤装;中原;渊源;图形比较;衣裤形制

中图分类号： TS941.12

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）11009406

引用页码： 111204

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.11.016

On the origin of clothing and trousers of hundreds of workers in Qing Ming Shang He Tu

HUANG Zhigao

（Fashion School， Henan University of Engineering， Zhengzhou 451191， China）

Abstract：

In response to the lack of generalized research on the basic features of the costume forms of the hundreds of workers depicted in Zhang Zeduans version of Qing Ming Shang He Tu， and the doubt of the origin of the forms pointing to the Hu costume， this paper explores and verifies the representative images in the panting and the related comparative paintings through the horizontal comparison and generalization method， the vertical comparison and tracing method and the documentary evidence. It is concluded that the basic forms of the costume of the hundreds of workers are clothing and trousers and might not be derived from the Hu costume. The study shows that the clothing and trousers of hundreds of workers are divided into three main types， namely， long clothing and trousers， short clothing and trousers， and short clothing and trousers; the clothing and trousers should be inherent in the Middle Kingdom， not derived from Hu costume; the phrase "riding and shooting on horse in Hu costume" cannot serve as an evidence for the view that the clothing and trousers are originated from Hu costume， but it has another connotation， i.e.， wearing clothing and trousers with leather boots and leather belts for riding and shooting; the small-sleeved round-necked short garment is the result of the influence of the clothing and trousers of the Middle Kingdom.

Key words：

Qing Ming Shang He Tu; hundreds of workers; clothing and trousers; the Middle Kingdom; origin; graphical comparison; form of clothing and trousers

基金项目： 国家社科基金艺术学一般项目（18BG112）

作者简介： 黄智高（1977），男，副教授，主要从事中华服饰艺术及其时尚化的研究。

作为北宋经典风俗画作，张择端版《清明上河图》不仅以宏大场景再现了汴梁城经济生活的繁盛面貌，还以简练而生动的笔法刻画了当时工商百业各不相同的着装风尚，为当下考证北宋时人们着装形态提供了宝贵史料。服饰史先驱沈从文先生[1]483-486就以专门的章节在其著作《中国古代服饰研究》中就此进行了广泛引证与一定解读，丁锡强先生[2]也对其中的人物服饰描绘进行了总结，称之为“百工百衣”。还有其他的一些著述對此也有所提及或探讨，但多是对其“百工百衣”风尚面貌的总结性阐述或简要介绍[3-5]，至于其各业服饰的具体形制特征及历史渊源却缺少纵横向比较、推敲与考证，从而弱化了《清明上河图》的服饰史学价值。……