何远骏 刘瑞璞

摘要：

清代朝冠寒暑易制、朝祭而御，为清代服制的正式礼冠，是中国历史上最后王朝独具满俗汉制特色的冠式。文章采用标本研究、结构分析与文献互证的方法，针对清代明蓝石顶冬朝冠标本的帽胎、顶戴形制进行测绘记录和图像文献考释。通过分析其冠帽结构及形制特征，阐释清代朝冠“由行至朝”的形制演变、功能转化及制度意涵。研究表明：冬朝冠作为清代礼帽，其结构形制是由早期騎射功用的户外帽式发展而来。顶戴规制为北方游牧民族共通之俗，发端于辽金，发迹于元明，系统化于清朝。清冬朝冠形制反映了族群的生产生活方式、民族融合与政治格局的变迁，是承载了清朝封建王朝盛衰兴废的历史进程的服饰实证。

关键词：

冬朝冠：明蓝石顶：满俗汉制：顶戴制度：结构

中图分类号： TS941.12：K875.2

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）11008806

引用页码： 111203

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.11.015

A Study on the shape of winter court crown with translucent blue hat finial in the Qing dynasty

HE Yuanjun， LIU Ruipu

（School of Fashion， Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， Beijing 100029， China）

Abstract：

The court crown is the official top hat of the Qing dynasty， including summer crown and winter crown， for the purpose of pilgrimage and sacrifice. It is the hat style of the last dynasty in Chinese history with Manchu customs and Han system characteristics. This paper surveyed and recorded the shape of body and ornament of winter court crown specimen of the Qing dynasty with translucent blue hat finial， investigated and explained image literature through the methods of specimen research， image analysis， and document mutual verification. By analyzing the structure and shape characteristics of the crown， the paper explained the shape evolution of court crown from outdoor to court， the function transformation， and its system connotation. Studies have shown that the winter court crown was a formal hat in Qing dynasty， and its structure evolved from the outdoor hat type used for riding and archery in the early days. Hat top ornament system is a common custom of the northern nomadic people， originated in Liao and Jin dynasties， prospered in Yuan and Ming dynasties， and systematized in Qing dynasty. The shape of the court crown reflects the changes in ethnic production and lifestyle， national fusion， and political patterns， and it can provide real evidence of the historical process of the ups and downs of the Qing Feudal dynasty.

Key words：

winter court crown; translucent blue hat finial; Manchu customs and Han system; hat-top ornament system; structure

基金项目： 国家社科基金艺术学一般项目（19BG115）

作者简介： 何远骏（1995），男，硕士研究生，研究方向为服装造型及应用。通信作者：刘瑞璞，教授，13121072867@163.com。

清典籍《皇朝通典》：“射猎者，演武之法：服制者，立国之经。”说明清代虽然继承了儒统繁缛庞杂、等级森严的衣冠制度，但在表现形式上享守骑射祖制，以宣示不忘本色，冠制便独树于清帝制风尚。北方强大的少数民族政权，自崇德初元就已经厘定了“上下冠服诸制”，至乾隆年间“法式加详”，而冠帽为其重要部分。一方面，清朝冠帽服制受北方游牧民族习俗影响，强调骑射为“根本至计”，遵循“未可轻革旧俗”的原则，认为“祖宗成宪俱在，所宜永守勿愆也”，因此固守延续本民族的服饰本色以强化“国本”的祖属传统。……