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回望那片海

2021-11-08文江扬

艺术交流 2021年3期

文江 扬

图江 扬 欧伟建

沿着夏威夷岛的海边公路行驶,长长一线的潮水,在亮晃晃的大海边缘涨涨落落。空气中满是湿润的潮音,喧响而富有韵律。

我曾经在欧胡岛游玩,那是夏威夷首府所在地,也是夏威夷群岛中最热闹的一个岛。在冲浪诞生地的威基基海滩戏水,看肤色各异的人驰骋浪尖,像一场不会结束的高难度表演;在珍珠港亚利桑那号纪念馆,看长眠于水下的战舰主桅杆,像是饮恨苍天不愿低下的头颅。在钻石头山和恐龙湾,跟着人流去攀岩踏浪;在都乐种植园,像孩子一样吃着菠萝雪糕去乘小火车,穿行于世界最大的植物迷宫。

Driving along the seaside road of Hawaii Island, a long line of tide rises and falls on the edge of the bright sea. The air is full of moist tidal sounds, loud and rhythmic.

I used to visit Oahu, the capital of Hawaii and the most lively island in the Hawaiian Islands. Play in the water at Waikiki Beach, the birthplace of surfing, and watch people of different skin colors ride the waves, like a difficult performance that will never end; look at the main mast of a battleship resting underwater at the USS Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor, as if it were a head that hates the sky and does not want to bow. In Diamond Head Mountain and Hanauma Bay, follow the flow of people for rock climbing and riding wave; in the Dole Plantation, eat pineapple ice cream like a child while riding a train through the world's largest plant maze.

I used to visit Oahu, the capital of Hawaii and the most lively island in the Hawaiian Islands. Play in the water at Waikiki Beach, the birthplace of surfing, and watch people of different skin colors ride the waves, like a difficult performance that will never end; look at the main mast of a battleship resting underwater at the USS Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor, as if it were a head that hates the sky and does not want to bow. In Diamond Head Mountain and Hanauma Bay, follow the flow of people for rock climbing and riding wave; in the Dole Plantation, eat pineapple ice cream like a child while riding a train through the world's largest plant maze.

库克船长纪念碑

皮划艇

而群岛中的大岛——夏威夷岛,却是我最向往的一个岛。

眼前的那片海,一阵云一阵雾,一阵风一阵雨。太阳出来时,一道美轮美奂的弧划过苍穹,在海面上架起一座红、橙、黄、绿、青、蓝、紫的彩色拱桥。

到了路的尽头停下车,儿子指着对面凯阿拉凯夸湾(Kealakekua Bay)的白色方尖碑说:“那里就是库克船长的纪念碑。”

公路不能通向对岸,皮划艇(kayak)是登陆的唯一选择。这些色彩鲜艳的皮划艇,是太平洋波利尼西亚岛上居民最早使用的独木舟,它有两三米长、前后只能坐两人。这种完全靠人力来操控速度和方向的交通工具,如果不小心失控落水,不知道皮划艇是否会倒扣在头上呢?

儿子看出我的犹豫,帮我穿上救生衣说:“你坐前面,我在后面。划船时不用使太大的力气。”先生在一旁笑我过于紧张。

12月热得像夏天,太阳很炽烈,尽管身上穿得密实,也照得我的脊背滚烫。……

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