张沈彤 邵亦杨

摘要： 文章从一件出现于中世纪伊比利亚地区著名的“巴格达丝绸”来探讨当时该地区对仿制东方式丝绸的自觉性。以同时期的中国丝绸作为切入点，分析东方风格传统纹样的流变，探讨在十二世纪时横跨欧亚大陆两端的安达卢西亚与中国之间的丝绸贸易往来与图案范式。以巴格达与中国作为安达卢西亚在十二世纪获取东方式丝绸的两个重要贸易点，对当时安达卢西亚的仿东方式丝绸的生产模式做出两种不同的分类，从安达卢西亚著名的“巴格达丝绸”出发，推断“巴格达丝绸”等安达卢西亚的仿东方式丝绸与一种生产自巴格达的名为“Nasich”的纺织品之间有千丝万缕的联系，并根据这两种不同的丝绸生产模式探析安达卢西亚的纺织工厂自觉仿制东方式丝绸的原因。

关键词：安达卢西亚;伊比利亚;丝织品;中国;丝绸之路;巴格达

中图分类号： TS941.12;J533.6（551）

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）10-0101-06

引用页码： 101206

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.10.016（篇序）

Cultural connotation and spread of the twelfth-century Al-Andalus silk fabricpattern design paradigm in the context of the Silk Road

ZHANG Shentong， SHAO Yiyang

（Humanities Institute， China Central Academy of Fine Arts， Beijing 100102， China）

Abstract：

In this paper， a famous "Baghdad silk" that appeared in the Iberian region of the Middle Ages was selected as the research object to investigate the conscious imitation of Oriental silk in this region. Starting from the Chinese silk of the same period， this paper analyzed the evolution of the traditional patterns of the Oriental-style silk fabrics， and discussed the silk trade exchange and pattern paradigm between China and Al-Andalus， an area that traversed the two ends of Eurasia in the twelfth century. With Baghdad and China as two important trading points for Al-Andalus to acquire Oriental-style silk fabrics in the 12th century， the production model of Al-Andalus imitation of Oriental-style silk was divided into two different classifications. Starting from "Baghdad Silk" in the Iberian region， it was inferred that Al-Andalus imitation of Oriental-style silk fabrics such as "Baghdad Silk" was inextricably connected with a textile called "Nasich" produced in Baghdad. Based on these two different silk production models， this paper analyzed the reasons for Al-Andalus textile factories conscious imitation of Oriental silk.

Key words：

Al-Andalus; Iberian; silk fabric; China; Silk Road; Baghdad

收稿日期： 2021-03-02;

修回日期： 2021-09-15

基金项目：

作者简介： 张沈彤（1997），女，硕士研究生，研究方向为世界美术史，通信作者：邵亦杨，教授，shaoyiyang@cafa.edu.cn。

十二世紀的安达卢西亚是穆斯林统治的伊比利亚半岛，现代历史学家用这个词来形容伊比利亚的前伊斯兰国家[1]。安达卢西亚的丝织品生产与丝织品贸易在十一世纪、十二世纪及十三世纪早期十分发达，它通过海运向中世纪的地中海地区源源不断输送它生产的丝织品。这些华丽的丝织品在纹样上呈现出强烈的东方风格，这对当时安达卢西亚的居民来说是具有强烈异域风情的奢侈品。……