陶凤仪 乔明伟 王姗姗 祝成炎 张红霞 田伟

摘要： 为从结构设计的角度开发具有单向导湿功能的机织物，文章选用黏胶纤维和蜂窝微孔涤纶纤维为原料，通过改变纤维原料在织物厚度方向上的排列方式，使织物内外两层呈现不同的吸湿效应，测试并分析织物两层的含水量变化、浸湿时间、吸水速率、液态水分扩散速度、最大浸湿半径及单向传递指数，进一步分析水分在织物中的传递机理。结果表明：水分在织物中传递和吸湿扩散具有选择性和方向性;疏水内层作为贴肤面在润湿梯度效应下能单向将人体汗液排出，且能隔绝外界水分;织物内外两层亲疏水性能差异越大，单向导湿性能越好。

关键词： 单向导湿;润湿梯度;亲疏水性能;机织物;结构设计;组织结构

中图分类号： TS105.11

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 10017003（2021）07011007

引用页码： 071301

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.07.018（篇序）

Study on design and performance of unidirectional woven fabric with moisture conduction function

TAO Fengyi1， QIAO Mingwei2， WANG Shanshan2， ZHU Chengyan1， ZHANG Hongxia1， TIAN Wei1

（1.College of Textile Science and Engineering（International Institute of Silk）， Zhejiang Sci-Tech University， Hangzhou 310018， China;2.Hangzhou Xintianyuan Textile Co.， Ltd.， Hangzhou 310018， China）

Abstract： In order to develop woven fabrics with unidirectional moisture conduction function from the perspective of structural design， viscose fiber and honeycomb microporous polyester fiber were used as raw materials. By changing the arrangement of fiber materials in the thickness direction of the fabric， the inner and outer layers of the fabric presented different moisture absorption effects. The moisture content change， wetting time， water absorption rate， liquid water diffusion rate， maximum wetting radius and unidirectional transfer index of the two layers of the fabric were tested and analyzed， and the moisture transfer mechanism in the fabric was further analyzed. The results show that， moisture transfer and moisture absorption diffusion in the fabric were selective and directional. The hydrophobic inner layer as the skin surface could discharge human sweat in one direction under the wetting gradient effect， and isolate the external moisture. The greater the difference in hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties between the inner and outer layers， the better the unidirectional moisture conduction property.

Key words： unidirectional moisture conduction; wetting gradient; hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties; woven fabric; structure design; weave structure

收稿日期： 20210103;

修回日期： 20210610

基金項目：

作者简介： 陶凤仪（1996），女，硕士研究生，研究方向为功能性纺织品应用方面的研究。通信作者：田伟，副教授，tianwei_zstu@126.com。

单向导湿织物是具有吸湿、导湿、散湿性能的功能性纺织品，具有水分定向传输的能力，在人体分泌汗液时，能有效控制皮肤与织物间微气候的湿度，及时将汗液导向织物外层并蒸发掉[1]。织物内层（贴肤面）疏水、外层亲水时，内外层亲疏水性能的差异在织物结构中形成水势差，织物层间产生润湿梯度，使得织物中的水分会自发地从疏水端向亲水端传导，从而控制液体流动方向，有效地提高织物中水分单向传递的能力[2]。……