黄智高

摘要： 帔帛是龙门石窟造像中的长巾状衣饰，同时也广泛存在于其他传世图像，其美感独特，承载信息丰富。诸研究认为其用名“帔帛”与“披帛”同义，并始源于佛教而影响至世俗;但也有研究认为其源于中原而影响至佛教，还有研究就其材质做了讨论。文章以中国本土的帔帛源流探索为视角，以龙门石窟造像为取证中心，兼以其他实证与文献，对已有成果进行重新爬梳、比较与考证。研究认为“帔帛”与“披帛”概念不同，前者所指更宽泛，可含“披帛”“帔子”“霞帔”等多种披挂名物;提出帔帛材质可有多种，而披帛材质只能是丝绸的观点;认为长巾帔帛源流存有始发西方、本土原生、世俗与佛教平行原发等多种可能，强调了印度佛教的初始帔帛应有中国基因。

关键词： 帔帛;披帛;源流;龙门石窟;长巾;霞帔;丝织品

中图分类号： TS941.12;J523.5

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）05-0114-06

引用页码： 051205

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.05.017（篇序）

Abstract： Peibo as a long scarf-like costume of Longmen Grottoes statues can be widely found in other handed-down images with unique beaty and a wealth of connotation. According to many studies， "Peibo" is synonymous with "Pibo"， originated from Buddhism with great influence on the secular world; however， some studies believe that it originated from the Central Plains and influenced Buddhism， and some studies discuss its materials. Through the exploration of the origin and development of Peibo in China， taking Longmen Grottoes statues as the center for evidence acquisition， based on other empirical and literature， this paper sorted out the existing achievements again for further comparison and research. It is concluded that the concept of "Peibo" is different from "Pibo". The former refers to a broader meaning， including "Pibo"， "Peizi"， "Xiapei" and other items. This paper also proposed the viewpoint that there exist many kinds of materials of Peibo， and only silk can be used as the material of Pibo， and it is believed that there exist a lot of possibilities： the long scarf Peibo might be originated from the west， it was formed in native place and it might be originated simultaneously from secular and Buddhism. Then， this paper also emphasizes the original Peibo of Indian Buddhism is supposed to contain Chinese gene.

Key words： Peibo; Pibo; origin and development; Longmen Grottoes; long scarf; Xiapei; silk fabric

汉传佛教文化的精粹所在之龙门石窟造像被联合国教育、科学及文化组织评为“中国石刻艺术的最高峰”，其石刻及服饰艺术表现均处于顶峰时代，所载服饰形象具有典型研究价值。其中，菩萨、力士、飞天、供养人披挂的一種长巾状衣饰，刻画精妙细腻，润美流畅，审美价值不凡，与唐代《簪花仕女图》等画作中的世俗间长巾饰物相似。中央文史馆员孙机对此及莫高窟272窟北凉壁画中菩萨所着该类名物以“帔帛”称名指称[1]116，认为其以薄纱制作，“像一条轻薄的长围巾”[2]，做出了具体性状认定。与……