冒绮

摘要： 盘扣是重要的中国传统服装元素，在民国时期发展至顶峰，民国盘扣的造型艺术及流行变迁受到西风东渐的影响。文章根据历史文献、实物和图像等资料，梳理了中国传统盘扣的历史沿革，分析了民国盘扣的造型艺术，探讨了民国盘扣流行变迁，并管窥民国社会文化观念变化，对中国传统服饰文化的传承发展提供了合理依据。研究表明：一字扣体现极简风格，盘花扣体现装饰艺术，其他盘扣体现材料艺术，盘扣制作技艺弘扬了中国传统手工艺的工匠精神。民国一字扣的渐变是对传统服饰的延续，盘花扣在民國时期突然流行，其嬗变受到欧洲新艺术运动的影响。

关键词： 民国;盘扣;造型艺术;流行变迁;西风东渐;盘花;传统服饰

中图分类号： TS941.12;K892.23

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）05-0094-07

引用页码： 051202

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.05.014（篇序）

Abstract： Button knot as one of essential elements of traditional Chinese clothing evolved to its summit during the Republic of China. Its patterning art and popularity evolution during the Republic of China were affected by the western trend into east. Based on historical literature， real objects and images， the historical evolution of Chinese ancient traditional button knots was sorted out， the patterning art in the Republic of China was analyzed， and the popularity evolution of button knots in the Republic of China was discussed. Through an investigation of the changes in social and cultural concepts in the Republic of China， this study is hoped to provide a reasonable basis for the inheritance and innovation of traditional Chinese clothing culture. The study has shown that one-style-button-knots manifest minimalist style， flower-style-button-knots manifest decorative art， other-style-button-knots reflect material art. The button knot manufacturing craftsmanship carries forward the craftsman spirit of traditional Chinese handicrafts. The gradual change of one-style-button-knots in the Republic of China is a continuation of traditional clothing. There was a sudden popularity of flower-style-button-knots during the Republic of China， and the evolution was influenced by Art Nouveau.

Key words： the Republic of China; button knots; patterning art; popularity evolution; western trend into east; twining flowers; traditional clothing

盘扣是中式服装重要组成部件，起到闭合服装开襟的作用[1]。人们所称的“盘扣”更多是把“盘”当作形容词，形容用扣襻条进行编盘的制作方式[2]。关于民国盘扣的深入研究并不多，包铭新[1]对清代服装门襟闭合件的结构和分布形态进行基于数据统计的分析，陈研[3]对盘扣在服装上分布情况进行研究，周楠[4]对盘扣与服装的关系进行研究，但至今没有从“西风东渐”的视角对民国盘扣造型艺术及流行变迁进行研究。民国盘扣的流行变迁反映了城市社会观念的变化，本文对中国传统服饰文化的传承发展提供合理依据，具有重要研究意义。笔者实地……