卿源 梁惠娥

摘要： 褙子是宋代极具时代特色和代表性的服饰，不分贵贱，均可服之。文章以墓葬出土实物为基础，结合图像资料、古籍文献等多重证据进行互证，针对宋代服饰褙子形制及分类、其形制蕴含的功能进行阐释分析。研究表明：宋代褙子样式多元，女款褙子形制可分为礼服式、常服式、便服式三种，多在袖式与衣身长度做变化;男款褙子形制可分为常服式、便服式两种，主要在领型上存在差异;其形制注重日常的实用、审美的表达和文化的延伸三方面的功能体现。

关键词： 宋代服饰;褙子;传统服饰;常服;公服;便服

中图分类号： TS941.12

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）05-0086-08

引用页码： 051201

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.05.013（篇序）

Abstract： Beizi， a representative costume with the characteristics of the Song dynasty， is suitable for people irrespective of high or low birth. Based on the unearthed physical objects from tombs， through the verification of a variety of evidences such as image data and ancient books， this paper explained and analyzed the shape， structure and classification of the costumes in Song dynasty， as well as the functions therein. The research showed that Beizi in Song dynasty was in diversified styles. The shape of female can be classified into three types： formal dress， regular dress and casual dress， which mostly varied in sleeve style and body length; the shape of male Beizi can be classified into two types： regular dress and casual dress， mostly different in the collar type; its shape and structure were focused on daily utility， aesthetic expression and cultural extension.

Key words： costume of Song dynasty; Beizi; regular clothing; public uniform; traditional clothes; casual wear

宋代商品经济繁茂，理学盛行，服饰文化紧跟当时社会环境倡导平凡、朴实、节俭的态度，宋人对艺术的审美观念较唐代之富丽堂皇，逐渐走向细腻儒雅。褙子作为最能表达宋朝时代风貌与审美观念的服饰，备受学者关注。现关于宋代服饰褙子相关内容的研究领域涵盖考古学、艺术学、设计学、文学等，给予不同视角观照，研究主要集中在名称考辨[1]、穿用内涵[2]、服饰造型[3]。

宋代服饰褙子总体形制特征虽然较为简约恒定，但簡单的构成方式并不意味着千篇一律的单调造型[4]。因此，目前学界对宋代服饰褙子具体形制构型的研究仍需加强，尤其是男、女款褙子的造型分类尚未明晰，有进一步探究的必要;另外，对其形制所蕴含功能价值的探讨尚需开拓与细化。本文针对女……