郑晓萍 刘成霞 孙思晴

摘要： 为准确、客观地评价服装穿着起拱性能，文章以18种机织面料为研究对象，将其制成裤子进行穿着起拱实验，利用三维扫描技术获取膝部起拱点云数据，对预处理后的数据进行主观评价和指标提取，得到曲面指标：均值、方差、峰度、均偏移、粗糙度和扭曲度，將6个曲面指标和起拱高度分别与主观起拱等级进行回归分析。结果表明：在着装起拱实验中，方差、粗糙度和均偏移预测起拱等级的优度均高于起拱高度。采用逐步回归法建立的综合模型预测起拱等级的优度最高为0.918，该模型可以合理地反映着装起拱等级，为客观评价服装起拱性能提供依据。

关键词： 裤子穿着起拱;曲面指标;起拱高度;主观评价;客观评价;起拱变形;膝部关节

中图分类号： TS941.2

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）05-0047-06

引用页码： 051108

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.05.008（篇序）

Abstract： To evaluate the wearing bagging properties accurately and objectively， 18 woven fabrics were selected to make into pants for wearing bagging tests. The knee bagging point cloud data were obtained by using 3D laser scanner. Then the processed data were subjectively evaluated and indicators were extracted to obtain surface indexes include mean， variance， kurtosis， average deviation， roughness and torsion. Then the regression analysis of 6 surface indexes and bagging height with subjective bagging grade was conducted. The results showed that the superiority of variance， roughness and average deviation in predicting bagging grade is higher than that of bagging height. A comprehensive index model established by stepwise regression method is used to predict the degree of superiority of clothing bagging grade， which is 0.918. The model can reasonably reflect the clothing bagging grade and provide a basis for objectively evaluating wearing bagging.

Key words： pants wearing bagging; surface index; bagging height; objective evaluation; subjective evaluation; bagging deformation; knee joint

服装起拱的原因有多种，如工艺上的裁剪不当，吃势不均、粘衬不平整等，但多数源于人体着装运动时，膝、肘等部位的大幅活动。这种起拱变形严重影响了服装的外观性能和使用寿命。因此，各国学者就如何测试、评价服装起拱进行了大量研究。胡金莲等[1]在Celanese型起拱仪[2]的基础上采用Instron拉伸仪对棉织物进行定负荷起拱测试，并用WIRA地毯厚度仪测量起拱高度。Doustar等[3]利用拉力试验机获得不同织物的起拱阻力、织物疲劳、残余拱高等参数。王道航等[4]自主设计了图像采集装置，并利用图像处理技术对织物残余起拱高度进行了预测。Hasani等[5]建立了织物基本结构及混纺比与起拱残余高度之间的回归模型。……