张樱 王利君

摘要： 针对柿漆染色后桑蚕丝织物手感硬化问题，文章运用K/S值与低应力下织物性能评价得到染色工艺参数的合适范围，采用正交实验优化染色工艺，利用扫描电子显微镜、红外光谱等分析柿漆染色后桑蚕丝织物的表面形态、化学组成。结果表明：优化染色工艺为柿漆稀释比例1︰3，染色8次，浴比1︰40，pH值为6;傅立叶红外光谱表明染色后桑蚕丝织物表面存在大量缩合单宁，织物具有良好的色牢度和紫外线防护能力;经柿漆染色后的桑蚕丝织物柔软而有身骨，不黏皮肤，经久耐用。

关键词： 柿单宁;天然染色;桑蚕丝织物;染色工艺;KES织物风格;柿漆

中图分类号： TS193.5

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）05-0001-07

引用页码： 051101

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.05.001（篇序）

Abstract： To solve the problem of hardened hand feeling of fabric after persimmon dyeing， an appropriate range of dyeing process parameters was obtained through K/S value and fabric performance evaluation under low-load. The dyeing process was optimized in orthogonal experiments. The surface morphology and chemical components of the dyed fabric were analyzed using Scanning Electron Microscope and infrared spectrum. The results show that the condition for optimum dyeing processis︰dilution ratio of persimmon lacquer is 1︰3， dyeing for 8 times， bath ratio of 1︰40， pH=6. Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometer indicated that a large amount of condensed tannins are left on the dyed silk fabric surface; the dyed silk fabric has good color fastness and UV protection performance; the silk fabric after dyeing by persimmon is soft and textured， non-skin-sticking and durable.

Key words： persimmon tannin; natural dyeing; silk fabric; dyeing process; KES fabric style; persimmon lacquer

由于桑蚕丝织物抗紫外线性能较差，对天然染料染色色牢度低等问题，通常使用媒染剂改善[1-3]，但媒染剂对环境造成污染，研究发现柿染棉织物不需要媒染就能获得较好的色牢度，使棉织物紫外线防护系数UPF值大于50[4]。柿漆由夏季青果榨汁发酵成棕红色液体，主要成分为缩合单宁，是一种天然高分子多酚化合物;柿漆原液浓度高，染色后易造成纤维手感发硬[5]。Bae等[6]将合成纤维织物经过多次柿漆染色，发现染色次数对织物力学性能和风格手感值有较大影响，随着染色次数增加，合成纤维织物刚度、丰满度和柔软度的值增加，柔软感下降;随染色次数增加，织物的厚度和质量增加，吸附在纤维表面的柿漆量逐渐增加[7];随着染色次数增加，悬垂刚度和弯曲刚度在经、纬方向均增大，抗皱率减小[8]。……