张陈恬 赵连英 顾学锋 项国富 陈操 余启磊

摘要： 为探究混纺比对中空咖啡碳/棉混纺纱性能的影响。文章设计中空咖啡碳/棉纤维20/80、40/60、60/40、80/20四种混纺比，采用环锭纺与赛络纺制样八组纱线，测试并分析纱线的表面形态、实际捻度、条干均匀度、毛羽指数、拉伸性能、吸湿性能。结果表明：随着中空咖啡碳纤维含量的增加，混纺纱断裂强度和断裂伸长率呈线性增长趋势、回潮率持续减小;中空咖啡碳纤维含量过高或低，都会存在实际捻度偏差变大、条干不匀率增加、毛羽根数增多等问题;赛络纺中空咖啡碳/棉纤维40/60纱线综合性能最佳，适合开发中空咖啡碳纤维高档针织产品。

关键词： 混纺比;中空咖啡碳纤维;捻度;条干;毛羽;拉伸性能;吸湿性能

中图分类号： TS155.6

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 10017003（2021）01002707

引用页码： 011105

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.01.005（篇序）

Effect of blending ratio on the hollow coffee carbon/cotton blended yarn

ZHANG Chentian1，3， ZHAO Lianying1，3， GU Xuefeng2， XIANG Guofu1， CHEN Cao1， YU Qilei1

（1.College of Textile Science and Engineering， Zhejiang Sci-Tech University， Hangzhou 310018， China; 2.Ningbo Mafei SheepTextile Technology Co.， Ltd.， Ningbo 315700， China; 3.National Engineering Lab for TextileFiber Materials and Processing Technology， Hangzhou 310018， China）

Abstract：

To investigate the effect of blending ratio on the performance of hollow coffee carbon blended yarn， the hollow coffee carbon/cotton fibers with four kinds of blended ratio： 20/80， 40/60，60/40 and 80/20 were designed， and two kinds of spinning methods were used to produce eight groups of yarns， ring spinning and siro spinning. Then， the surface morphology， actual twist， evenness， hairiness， tensile property， and hygroscopic properties of the yarns were tested and analyzed. The results show that， with the increase in the content of hollow coffee carbon fiber， the breaking strength and elongation of the yarns increased linearly， and the moisture regain decreased continuously. Meanwhile， if the content of hollow coffee carbon or cotton fiber was too high or too low， some problems would exist， such as big twist deviation， more unevenness and hairiness increase. Hollow coffee carbon/cotton fiber 40/60 yarns produced by siro spinning had the best comprehensive performance. Therefore， it is most suitable for being used to develop high-grade hollow coffee carbon knitting products.

Key words：

blending ratio; hollow coffee carbon fiber; twist; evenness; hairiness; tensile properties; hygroscopic property

中空咖啡碳纖维是一种新型功能性涤纶，是咖啡渣由高温煅烧、研磨成的纳米粉体，经特殊工艺加工制成母粒后，与一定含量的聚酯切片共混、纺丝而成，具有抑菌除臭、蓄热保暖、防紫外等多种功能[1]，并且安全、环保、手感舒适，适合加工贴身服饰，自面市后深受消费者欢迎。

国际知名品牌如Eider、Timberland、New balance、Hush Puppies、L.L.Bean、ZegnaSport等陆续推出咖啡系列产品[2]。国内有黑牡丹公司[3]推出咖啡碳牛仔布，上海帕兰朵高级服饰有限公司[4]开发咖啡玉石针织内衣，美特斯·邦威[5]将咖啡纤维作为填充物推出冬季保暖外衣等，以及AB内衣、宜而爽、飞马、山东红妮、森马、华歌尔、红豆、纤丝鸟等都推出了以咖啡碳纤维为主要原料的系列产品[6]。……