锁进猛　张浩　滕美　周聃一　乐薇

摘要：開发一种箬叶缓释补水材料的新型面膜产品。以保湿率、羟基自由基清除率与酪氨酸酶活力抑制率的综合评价CE值为考察指标，通过对箬叶活性凝胶含量、壳寡糖保湿凝胶含量、箬叶活性凝胶与壳寡糖保湿凝胶配比三因素五水平星点试验设计对传统面膜配方进行优化，并对结果进行多元线性和二次多项式非线性拟合，进行预测分析与验证试验。进一步进行感官评价与动物刺激试验。面膜最优配方组成：箬叶活性凝胶含量4.6 %、壳寡糖保湿凝胶含量2.4%以及箬叶活性凝胶与壳寡糖保湿凝胶配比1.2，保湿率、羟基自由基清除率与酪氨酸酶活力抑制率预测值与理论值的偏差分别为0.63 %、0.58 %与0.35 %。面膜使用效果试验表明：该面膜中不含刺激、易致敏成分，作用条件温和，面膜理化及感官评价指标符合国家接受标准，同时动物实验未表现出异常，进行临床研究表明该面膜具有明显美白效果。星点设计-效应面法对箬叶缓释补水面膜制备工艺优化，理论模型预测良好，适用于该面膜配方的优化。箬叶缓释补水面膜具有一定的美白、保湿与抗衰老功效。

关键词：箬叶;黄酮;面膜;壳聚糖;星点设计

中图分类号：S753文献标识码：A文章编号：1004-3020（2019）04-0024-08

Development of Slow Water Supplement Material for Indocalamus longiauritus

Leaves and its Application on Faciac MaskSuo JinmengZhang HaoTeng MeiZhou DanyiYue Wei

（College of Environmental and Biological Engineering， Wuhan Technology and Business UniversityWuhan430065）

Abstract： A new facial mask product containing natural antioxidant ingredients was developed. Using moisture rate， hydroxyl free radical clearance and tyrosinase activity inhibition rate of comprehensive evaluation of CE value as examining index， we optimized traditional mask formula， based on the contents of film-former， moisturizing factor， film former and moisturizing factor ratio with three factors and five levels star test design， and the results were analyzed by linear and quadratic polynomial nonlinear fitting， forecast analysis and verification experiments. Further sensory evaluation and animal stimulation experiments were conducted. The optimal formula of the mask consists of 4.6 percent film formation agent， 2.4 percent moisturizer， and the ratio of film formation agent and moisturizer is 1.2. The difference between the predicted value and theoretical value of the moisture rate， hydroxyl radical scavenging rate and the activity inhibition rate of tyrosinase is 0.63 percent， 0.58 percent and 0.35 percent， respectively. The application effect of the mask shows that the mask contains no stimulating， sensitive ingredients， and the functional conditions are mild. The physicochemical and sensory evaluation indexes of the mask conform to the national accepted standards. Meanwhile， the animal experiments show no abnormalities. The star point design-effect surface method can optimize the preparation process of Indocalamus longiauritus leaves flavone oligomeric chitosan mask， and the theoretical model predicts well. Indocalamus longiauritus leaves flavonoid oligomer chitosan mask has a certain whitening， moisturizing and anti-aging effect.

Key words：Indocalamus longiauritus leaves; flavonoids; Tmask; chitosan; star design

箬叶竹Indocalamus longiauritus别名粽叶，又叫“角黍”“筒粽”[1-2]，1825年被Hand.-Mazz正式命名，主要产于浙江西天目山、衢县和湖南零陵阳明山，中国长江以南包括安徽、浙江、湖南、湖北、四川等14个省均有生长，目前已发现近20个亚种[3-4]，箬叶具有清热止血、解毒消肿之效[5]，可以治疗吐血、下血、小便不利、喉痺、痈肿等病症[6]。……