邹专勇 虞美雅 陈建勇 张连京 马瑞雪 胡英杰

摘要：低扭矩环锭柔软纱技术是指通过环锭纺成纱过程或纱线后处理控制实现纱线残余扭矩降低、手感柔软的一种纱线加工技术。为深化低扭矩环锭柔软纱加工技术的开发与应用，从低扭矩纱线加工现状出发，首先分析了影响纱线残余扭矩的因素，然后详细阐述了纱线残余扭矩减小或消除的方法，最后就纱线加工中假捻技术在低扭矩纱开发中的应用与效果展开了探讨。研究指出：将动态假捻技术引入低扭矩纱线加工过程，是开发低扭矩、柔软手感环锭纺纱线的最有效途径。

关键词：环锭纺；低扭矩纱；柔软纱；假捻技术

中图分类号：TS111.8文献标志码：A文章编号：1009-265X（2018）03-0089-04Status of Processing a Lower Torsion Moment Ring Spun Yarn with

Soft Handle and Application of False Twisting Technology

ZOU Zhuanyong1，2，3， YU Meiya3， CHEN Jianyong1，

ZHANG Lianjing2， MA Ruixue2， HU Yingjie2

（1.Faculty of Materials and Textiles， Zhejiang SciTech University， Hangzhou 310018， China； 2.Production

R&D Center， Zhejiang Huafu Melange Yarn Spinning Co.， Ltd.， Shangyu 312300， China；

3.College of Textiles & Fashion， Shaoxing University， Shaoxing 312000， China）Abstract：The technology of processing ring spun yarn with lower torsion moment and soft handle means the yarn spinning technology， which makes the yarn being with lower torsion moment and soft handle by controlling yarn formation and yarn post proceeding. In order to deepen the development and application of process technology used to process ring spun yarn with lower torsion moment and soft handle， based on the processing status of yarn with lower torsion moment， influencing factors of yarns residual torque were analyzed firstly. And then， we elaborated methods of decreasing or eliminating the yarn residual torque. Finally， the application and its effect of false twisting technology in the process of yarn manufacture were introduced. The research result shows that dynamic false twisting technology can be introduced into the formation process of lower torsion moment yarn， which is the best way to developing ring spun yarn with low torque and soft handle.

Key words：ring spinning； yarn with low torque； yarn with soft handle； false twisting technology

通信作者：陳建勇，Email：cjy@zstu.edu.cn环锭纺纱因纱线强度提高需要，常通过增加纱线捻度来实现，这将引起纱线残余扭矩增大，并对针织物的扭曲变形产生影响，最终导致织物或服装手感较硬，布面外观不平整、纹路歪斜等缺陷，同时使得针织面料的裁剪利用率降低[1]，难以满足现阶段无歪斜、布面平整等高质感织物的开发需求。开发一种低扭矩的纱线是改善织物歪斜（尤其是针织物纬斜）、布面不平整现象的最佳解决方案。然而，不同的低扭矩纱线加工方法对纱线残余扭矩的消除效果存在差异，如何通过设计纱线结构与控制纱线成形过程，解决成纱强力提高与残余扭矩降低之间的矛盾，是本文关注的重点。该研究有助于明确各种低扭矩纱线加工技术的优缺点，找准后续突破研究的重点，为规模化低扭矩纱线开发提供思路。……