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美在中国第一渔村:桐照

2018-01-09陈伟权

文化交流 2018年1期
关键词:象山港渔村妈祖

陈伟权

宁波市奉化区桐照为中国第一渔村。她那弥久浑厚的渔文化,却在历史风云中淡出,被正式命名授牌的年月也不长,以致陆域地界熟知的人不多。当今开发海洋經济,在那里的阳光海湾,大企业家们投资从数亿元开始到数百亿元,日益看好,其中的第一渔村桐照,也随之美名远扬,彰显无穷魅力。2017年11月,桐照获农业部授予的“国家级最美渔村”称号。

第一渔村由来久

步及桐照村,岩石上铭刻的“中国第一渔村”红色大字,簇拥着绿树鲜花,豁然醒目。

中国渔业协会组织专家组对桐照村经过评审,于2010年1月确认、授牌为中国第一渔村。5年后复评,合格后于2017年5月再发证书。两块金匾红字的奖牌,在村办公楼里金光闪烁。中国渔业协会会长授牌时与村代表的合影,永久定格在桐照村史上。

据《奉化市志》记载,五代时有高梧山,山上“梧桐繁生,枝叶辉照”。种好梧桐树,引得凤凰来,早有桐照地名。相邻又有栖凤村,为凤凰起居宝地,村旁的翡翠湾正在建设海洋公园,港湾中还有凤凰山岛,与高梧山相对。桐照驻有林、陈、吴、王等多姓人家,其中林姓最多,而林姓的桐照始祖,与海神妈祖同乡同宗同姓,都来自福建莆田。

妈祖出世在北宋年间。莆田林姓人家生下的小女一个多月,从没啼哭,于是取名林默,稍事长大后,一次家中父兄5人出海遇险。林默在梦中神游海上救护家人,反映她对海事有超乎寻常的“灵感”。后来林默誓不嫁人,乘船渡海,救护遇难渔民和商人,被人们呼为海神。公元987年一个飓风暴雨夜,林默在海上抢救遇险船民被飓风卷走。后人修庙祭祀她,尊称她为妈祖。

学界评述妈祖扬名则在宁波(古明州)。北宋宣和5年夏天,有位叫路允迪的官员奉命出使高丽,率8艘大船从明州出发,中途遇狂风巨浪,船倾人仰、十分危急。忽见红衣神女妈祖缓降于船桅之上,刹那间风平浪静,船队得救。官员路允迪回国后,将此事上奏朝廷,同年宋徽宗下旨赐“顺济”庙额。此事在《丛书集成》的《宣和奉使高丽图经》中有记载,妈祖由明州传遍天下,历代帝王褒封妈祖为“天妃”、“天后”,直至“天上圣母”,积淀成深厚的妈祖文化。从前宁波甬东天后宫是祖国大陆七大天后宫之一,与天津、南京、扬州、上海、福州、泉州的天后宫齐名。港澳台地区信仰妈祖人数众多,台湾有妈祖庙、天妃宫800余座。

宁波妈祖遗迹甬东天后宫,现为宁波海事民俗馆,又称庆安会馆,为全国重点文物保护单位。桐照渔村更与妈祖结缘。南宋末年,兵荒马乱,莆田林坤携家沿海迁徙,途中遇大风大浪,祈祷妈祖化险为夷,请求指点何处停泊上岸。林坤在迷糊昏睡中,只见妈祖示意他们一路北上,见有梧桐神庙处,可为安身之地。

林坤全家北行一天之后,来到一个小庙宿夜,梦中有一将军奉妈祖之地,示意这里可成林家栖息生养之地。林坤梦醒读到庙碑,知是纪念陈豨神庙。陈豨原为汉初名将,统率边兵,封为列候,又礼贤下士,广招宾客千余。林坤在那里又见梧桐,从此定居桐照,谱牒上称“始祖坤公”,子孙繁衍,人才辈出。一方水土育一方人,桐照林氏后人既有妈祖的仁慈,又有陈豨的勇悍。

林姓人氏和桐照其他村民和睦相处,团结一致,共同开拓象山港畔渔村天地。

走出港湾敢闯海

象山港在《辞海》条目中注释为天然良港,是东北向西南延伸的狭长形海湾,位于象山县、宁海县北部,宁波市奉化区南部。桐照处于奉化开发的象山港阳光海湾。据《桐照渔业简史》介绍,宋开庆年间,奉化以桐照为主,就有上千艘船出海,中国渔业博物馆内有“奉化鱼会”遗物,说的也是桐照,邻近有“河泊所”的地名,诉述着古代鱼市兴旺,明代设河泊所征收的渔税丰盈。

东海水产优质,在象山港的鱼、虾、蟹、蚶等分外鲜美。在开发和保护象山港中,桐照村民注重生态养殖。村民委员会主任林亚义是奉化海水网箱养殖协会会长,组织村民在港湾养殖鲈鱼、黄鱼、美国红鱼和黑雕等。

桐照渔民在象山港畔享受大自然的恩赐,更是志存高远,勇于闯海。在交通和气象科学不发达的古代,他们在与狂风巨浪搏斗中,养成不畏艰辛、团结拼搏的传统。古代渔民预测海上气象用蜡烛。在船尾点亮蜡烛,如灯光笔直,说明风平浪静,可放心捕捞,若烛光弯曲,知道大风浪将至,得迅速回港。船只捕捞风险大,有民谚:船上“三尺板面是娘房,三尺板外见阎王。”风浪中形成有名的“桐照旗帮”,以各色彩旗为号,一方有难,众人相助。历史上桐照人斗倭寇,倭寇丧魂落魄;斗海盗,海盗望风而逃。如今先进的捕捞钢质渔轮,为桐照渔民闯海大显身手,捕捞常到钓鱼岛,直至远洋。古代的木帆船只能在近海作业,后来发展成大捕船载重量可达十六七吨,造船木材讲究,可到外海作业,但仍要借力风帆和人力摇橹。1956年桐照迎来奉化第一对机帆船,也是全省最早的机帆船之一,机帆船载重35吨,发动机马力40匹。1989年开始启用钢质渔轮,钢质渔轮载重在300吨以上,马力250匹以上。桐照渔民世代闯海耕浪,锤炼了一批又一批船老大,如今跨入了渔业发展的新时代。

象山港的出名在于是生命港、安全港,桐照码头更是温馨港。每当风浪来袭,渔民凭着气象预报,迅速把渔轮驶入港湾,角尺形的桐照码头从岸地一端伸入港湾,相邻有悬山岛屏障,码头两边停泊渔轮可达500余艘,船上旗帜猎猎,形成巨大的船山,巍然屹立,安然无恙。漁民爱护海洋从茫茫大海到港湾,连微小的废电池,也做到回收上岸,不丢入海中。

林国锵是土生土长的桐照人,担任20多年村主要干部。他介绍桐照如数家珍。桐照常住人口1.6万人,其中6千人为外地来的新宁波人,渔民的固定资产达30多亿元,积极开拓国内外活鱼市场,分别有跑国际航线和国内市场的运输船、车。一年多来,桐照在上海市场的活海水鱼销售量达2000多吨,占整个上海市场同类产品的70%,同时每月保持6至7万尾活鱼远销国际市场。新时代的桐照呈现一派渔业生产美和生态美,渔民和谐美和文化美。endprint

渔家风情别样美

旅游宁波,到溪口雪窦山5A级国家级风景区固然诱人,到奉化区游览海洋文化,在松岙、裘村到莼湖的碧海蓝天也另有风情,得天独厚的桐照则在其中。

桐照码头一天有几百艘渔轮进出。一箱箱带鱼、黄鱼、鲳鱼、海鳗等鱼货,通过传送带源源不断地送到岸上,运鱼的、充冰的、加水的,人来车往,熙熙攘攘,连着桐照街道,把鱼货送往四面八方,一派繁华鱼市景观,远非古代河泊所鱼市可比。

从前渔民出海捕捞,冬季渔汛期不回家。有首《渔嫂歌》唱的是“我夫九月出门到五月来”。歌词在唱丈夫出门捕捞苦的同时也反映家中穷日子:“家中没有安家本啊,大儿小囡要吃用,四亲八眷是借勿拢。”今日桐照有首《四季渔歌》,唱出了今昔天壤之别:“冬季里渔汛传来高产量,渔用卸货码头忙啊,汽车装鱼全国卖,渔民生活大变样。新渔村、新气象,高楼别墅一幢幢,嗨!一年更比一年强哎!”过去渔民除夕在海上回不了家,如今在桐照开漁轮的外来务工人员也可回家同家人团聚。2014年1月陕西安康旬阳县杨秀峰在回家路上,恰逢李克强总理在他家走访,总理电话喊他平安回家,使杨秀峰回家过年更增加了欢乐的气氛。

渔村文化极富海洋内涵,品味海鲜上档次,游客特别推崇。春季吃春鱼、海鲫鱼、桃花鲻鱼、马鲛鱼;夏季吃鲈鱼、青郎、石板鱼、跳鱼;秋季吃黄鱼、带鱼、青蟹;冬季吃竹爽、玉秃、璜虎,每一道时令海鲜,都让人感受到纯正的渔家特色。特别是春潮涌动桃花盛开时,从太平洋深处飞速游到象山港畔来产卵的马鲛鱼,纺锤状的体型,腹部白色,青绿色的背脊上布有蓝色斑点,形成象山港上“蓝点马鲛鱼”文化,其肉质细白、鲜美无比,清明前后的頭水马鲛鱼,每市斤价达上千元。

桐照也是浙江省奉化向阳海岸休闲渔业基地,经过几年的发展,开发了众多休闲渔业项目,游客可以上渔家船,欣赏象山港如画之风景,随渔民开展捕捞和自己拢蟹笼等活动,可容纳40名游客的钢质船可以接游客到海上遨游,既有鱼池又有海上钓船。拥有1.6万平方米的海上平台,分为餐饮、垂钓、观光、休闲4个区块,可供300到800人同时用餐,吃海鲜、游海岛、钓海鱼,赶小海,游客可尽情享受渔家乐。

凭着象山港的天时地利人文优势,每年禁渔期后、开渔节始,都有庆祝出海捕捞和祭祀妈祖天妃活动。依托在港湾中悬山岛和凤凰山,规划开辟天妃湖,提升当地海洋文化。人们赞美桐照:朝阳洒进梧桐林,凤凰来仪啼金音;伴唱无尽渔光曲,奏响渔家第一村。

Tongzhao: Nations Best Fishing Village

By Chen Weiquan

Tongzhao, a fishing village in Fenghua District, Ningbo in eastern Zhejiang, is so proud of its national status that it joyfully flashes Chinas Number One Fishing Village painted in bright red on a huge rock near the village.

The honor is authentic. It was first designated in January 2010 by China Fishing Industry Association and recognized again in May 2017 after a reappraisal conducted in 2015 by the same organization. The two certificates, issued personally by two presidents of the association seven years apart, are posted side by side on a wall of the village administration office building. The photos taken during the two certificate issuing ceremonies are in the village chronicle.

The village is located in Xiangshan Bay, a narrow and long bay and a natural fishery. The village also acts as a natural shelter for fishing ships. According to local chronicles, Tongzhao served as home to more than 1,000 fishing ships in the Song Dynasty (960-1279). The fish trade flourished at the village. In the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the government operated a taxation office in the village to collect tax on the fish trade.

Tongzhao village has a port where over 500 fishing ships can dock safely away from storms and huge waves in bad weathers, thanks to a neighboring island which help the port be a natural shelter.

At present, the village has a population of 16,000, including 6,000 new residents from outside Ningbo. The villages fixed assets amount to over 3 billion yuan. Since ancient times, local fishermen have fished in Xiangshan Bay. Fishing and fish trading have been a long time tradition. Nowadays, the village is also engaged in offshore aquiculture. In the villages deepwater cages, there are bass, yellow croaker, redfish, and black seabream. Tongzhao sells about 2,000 tons of living sea fish in Shanghai alone, accounting for 70% of the total sold on the metropoliss market. Meanwhile, the village exports about 60,000 to 70,000 living fish to international markets every month.endprint

Tongzhao Port receives hundreds of fishing ships every day, bringing in a huge amount of ribbonfish, yellow croaker, butterfish, and conger. The fish changes hands at the port and gets loaded onto trucks and distributed to all the markets near and far.

Nowadays, Tongzhao is no longer a village simply engaged in fishing. It is now a huge tourism destination. Seafood gourmets flock to the village in all seasons as different seasons bring in different delicate seafood. Tourism has attracted hundreds of millions investment to the village. Nowadays, Tongzhao operates a gigantic on-the-sea leisure platform. The 16,000-square-meter area is divided into four sections where people can wine and dine, fish, do sightseeing, and engage in leisure activities. The restaurants on the platform can seat 800 people. Leisure boats now can take tourists out to sea to do sightseeing and fishing. The biggest steel leisure ship can take 40 tourists on a fishing tour on the sea.

Today, Tongzhao looks more like a city than a fishing village. Brand new houses stand like a forest. New residents have settled down and found home there.

The original population of the village is largely composed of a few clans. Lin is the surname of the largest clan. According to the local legends, the Lin clan is the descendents of Mazu, a folk goddess worshipped by fishermen and sailors in East China provinces such as Zhejiang, Fujian, Taiwan, and Guangdong and in Southeast Asian countries. Though the big clan was a late comer to the village, it soon struck up harmony with locals. It is the unity and harmony of these clans that is the foundation of the fortune of the village.endprint

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