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生态宝库天目山

2018-01-09童裳胜

文化交流 2018年1期
关键词:天目山天目银杏

童裳胜

“绿水青山就是金山银山。”天目山,不仅是生态的典范,也是保护生态的典范。“望得见山、看得见水的乡愁”里,天目山诠释着人类共同的情怀。

在浙江临安,天目山山系主脉经昌化进入於潜,和缓低迴了一阵之后,山势迭升,骤然抬头,形成了东西两大主峰,一座叫东天目山,一座叫西天目山,这对孪生兄弟合称为天目山。天目山是浙西诸山之祖,素以“大树王国”“物种宝库”“灵山福地”名扬古今,现在还是国家级自然保护区、“人与生物圈”国际组织成员单位、中国十佳避暑胜地。天目山的伟岸,不仅在于主峰的挺拔,更在于它在生态文明建设中的重要意义和崇高地位。

大树王国:古树名木五千多株

“天目千重秀,林木十里深。”天目山的威名,首先来自山上的古树名木,目前己发现的有5511株。它们以高、大、古、稀著称于世,人们称之为“森林世界,大树王国”。排在第一号的,自然是开山老殿下方的万年野银杏,即享誉海内外的“五世同堂”。大约在1亿年前,银杏曾是一个兴旺的家族,足迹遍及北半球。第四纪冰川给地球带来了巨大的灾难,银杏家族难逃此劫,先后灭绝,只有天目山的银杏顽强地生存了下来,延续着一个伟大的物种,被誉为“活的化石”。后来,银杏树由西天目传到我国北方,然后传到欧洲,再由欧洲传到美洲各地,目前世界上有50多个国家种植。20世纪70年代,我国林业专家对天目山银杏进行调查,发现其生存环境完全是天然的、树龄千年以上的就有244株。美国有位植物学家计划到浙江和湖南两地考察银杏的发源地,他先来到天目山,看到“五世同堂”后肃然起敬,说:“可以断定,这里就是世界银杏的祖籍地!湖南,我不用去了。”“五世同堂”从洪荒岁月中走来,端庄安详,从容淡定,超凡脱俗,是地球上银杏家族的老祖宗,代表着银杏树最本质的品格和无与伦比的资历。

早在1500年前,我国著名地理学家郦道元慕名来到天目山,在《水经注》中留下了这样的记载:“山上有霜木,皆是数百年树,谓之翔凤林。”可见,天目山的柳杉都是阅尽沧桑的老树,在古人心中还是凤凰翔集的吉祥树。在天目山,胸径1米以上的柳杉有566棵,2米以上的有19棵。乾隆帝欶封的“大树王”,胸径有2.33米,如今虽已卸下华盖,但风骨犹存,那段历史还活着。漫步在幽静的山道上,两边大树、老树林立,头顶遮天蔽日,仿佛走在一个古老的神话里。看天目山的柳杉,感觉不是看树,是和梁山的汉子在交谈呢。

要说“高”,开山老殿前的那棵金钱松,高达58米,形如利剑刺天;要说“稀”,长在天目村公路旁的“扭筋树”,书名“天目铁木”,野生的仅存5棵,被誉为“地球独生子”。

物种宝库:构成完整生态系统

“仰观宇宙之大,俯察品类之盛。”天目山的树,见证着山的资历;天目山的物种,代表着山的内涵。肥沃的土地,适宜的亚热带季风气候,赋予了天目山大片的原生林、独特的植被景观、无比丰富的物种,构成了完整、博大、活跃的自然生态系统,因而被称为“物种宝库”。分布在天目山的高等植物有249科、1044属、2347种,其中以“天目”命名的24种,如“天目铁木”、“天目金栗兰”等,都是在天目山首次发现,或是天目山独有的。自然,天目山也是野生动物的乐园,有66目、476科、4727种,属国家一级保护动物的有云豹、金钱豹等5种,国家二级保护动物有猕猴、穿山甲等36种。据统计,国内外采自天目山的植物模式标本有87种、动物模式标本有745种。

科考胜地:吸引各国专家前来

天目山是人与自然和谐的命运共同体,吸引着大量国内外学者、专家前来考察,在物种保护、学术研究、生态文明建设方面享有崇高的地位,弥散着深远的国际影响。1931年,中国著名林学家梁希来西天目山考察林木,他在著作中这样写道:“西天目山奇材异卉多不胜收”,“树木种类已知不下500种,非独可以代表浙江,且可以代表江南”。同期,李四光提出了天目山第四紀冰川遗迹的论述,引起了学术界的一场纷争,天目山逐渐进入了国内外植物学家、地质学家的视野。早在20世纪三四十年代,就有法国、德国等专家长期驻足天目山,采集了众多动植物标本。特别是时任上海震旦博物馆采集员、后任馆长的法国人奥皮尔,有整整几年时间在天目山采集,在《中国昆虫学记录》中发表的文章中,涉及天目山昆虫24篇,发表模式标本产生天目山新种80个;中华人民共和国成立后,来自苏联、美国、德国、加拿大等世界各地的专家和团队,接连不断来天目山考察、研究,留下了卷帙浩繁的研究成果,为人类探索自然科学的奥秘作出了巨大贡献。

绿色家园:恒久保护永续利用

保护天目山,是有识之士的共同心愿,是自古以来的一个绵长主题。在古代,我们从《临安县志》和《天目山志》上都可以找到依据,清朝时乾隆曾两次上天目山,并封当时的玉琳方丈为国师。著名画家叶浅予曾在天目山发出感慨,没有僧人的保护就没有这样的宝贵资源。民国时期,蒋介石及许多达官贵人、名人名士都曾到天目山顶礼膜拜。杭州刚解放时,市政府安排工作组到临安、於潜、昌化的同时,也安排工作组进驻天目山,目的是为了保护天目山。解放初,由有关乡镇和县有关部门成立了天目山管理委员会,由县长兼任委员会主任,直接负责天目山的保护和管理工作。1956年,全国政协六次会议上,由6位著名林学家、植物学家和院士递交提案,确定天目山为森林禁伐区,为天目山创建国家级自然保护区奠定了坚实基础;1982年,全国建立20个国家级自然保护区,天目山是其中面积最小的保护区,排名却在第五位;后来,中科院又向联合国教科文组织申报,天目山加入“人与生物圈”国际组织成员单位。endprint

為保护和建设天目山,1959年以来,历任浙江省委、省政府主要领导对天目山的建设和保护工作都有指示和批示。上世纪80年代起,省政府先后3次下达指示,迁出了保护区内80余户、300多人口。经省领导批示,省有关部门协调,天目山不允许随意搞开发和经营,行政、科研等建设经费全部由省财政厅直接划拨,这在全国是唯一的。

1985年,天目山管理局曾邀请浙江省和上海市的一批专家参加研讨会,主题是如何加强对天目山的保护和利用。当时,天目山管理局领导在汇报工作时,曾提到天目山动植物种群丰富,古树名木繁多,木材蓄积量特别大。时任国务院上海经济规划办副主任的张帆提出,“天目山是全国不可多得的一块宝地名山,它的价值是不可估量的。天目山地处长江三角洲,人口这么集中,交通这么方便,经济这么发达,千百年来能保护好这块原始森林、这个物种宝库,是天赐机遇,也是历史上一代又一代人的功劳,这在全国是独一无二的。如果让天目山遭到破坏,那我们就成罪人了。”这个观点,在当时引起了强烈的共鸣。

党的十九大报告号召推进绿色发展、加大生态系统保护力度,天目山是生态文明的一个经典、一个样本,然而在未来仍然面临着不少的困难和挑战,如何继续加强保护和利用是一个恒久的课题。

Tianmu Mountain: Ecological Treasure House

By Tong Shangsheng

Tianmu Mountain in the northwest Zhejiang is a treasure house of fauna and flora. All the mountains in the west of Zhejiang are parts of the mountain range. Tianmu Mountain is known as a kingdom of giant trees, a treasure house of species, a sanctuary of religions. Nowadays it is a national nature reserve, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve as part of UNESCOs Man and the Biosphere Program, and one of the countrys top ten summer resorts.

Tianmu Mountain has 5,511 towering ancient trees. The oldest are wild gingko trees that are more than 10,000 years old. Gingko trees flourished about 100 million years ago and most perished in the Quaternary Period. The gingko trees in Tianmu Mountain were the only that survived. After they were discovered, they were planted in the north of China before they spread to Europe. Nowadays, gingko trees can be seen in over 50 countries across the world. Of the gingko trees in Tianmu Mountain, 244 are over 1,000 years old. Tianmu Mountain has 566 giant Japanese cedars whose trunks measure 1 meter in diameter and 19 whose trunks measure 2 meters in diameter. Li Daoyuan, a Chinese geologist, visited Tianmu Mountains over 1,500 years ago, and mentioned the giant Japanese cedars, saying that these trees were several hundred years old.

Tianmu Mountain is a paradise of fauna and flora. In the field of plants, there are 2,379 species in 1,044 genera under 249 families. In particular, 24 species are named after Tianmu. In the field of fauna, there are 4,727 species in 476 families, which are in 66 orders. Specimens of 87 plant species and 745 animal species are in various collections at home and abroad.

Tianmu Mountain has attracted scientists to explore its fauna and flora secrets for decades. In 1931, Chinese forestry scholar Liang Xilai visited the mountain area and marveled at the tree species there in a book he wrote later. In the same period, geologist Li Siguang suggested that the Quaternary Period left its traces in Tianmu Mountain. The controversial idea triggered heated academic debates and discussions. Domestic and international botanists and geologists flocked to Tianmu Mountain to take a look. In the 1930s and 1940s, scientists from France and Germany spent a long time there collecting specimens. After the founding of the Peoples Republic of China, scientists from Soviet Union, USA, Germany, and Canada conducted field studies there. Their study tours were fruitful.endprint

Since very ancient times, the efforts to keep Tianmu Mountain intact have been made. Buddhist monks played a crucial role in protecting the mountain from deforestation. Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) visited Tianmu Mountains twice and conferred State Master on a Buddhist abbot there. In the years of the Republic of China (1911-1949) high-ranking government officials and celebrities came to visit the mountains. As soon as Hangzhou was liberated in 1949, the city government sent a taskforce to Tianmu Mountain for the purpose of preservation. Shortly after the founding of the Peoples Republic of China, Tianmu Mountain Administration was set up to protect the mountain and coordinate efforts of rural townships and Lianan County. The administration was headed by the county magistrate. In 1956, lumbering was banned in Tianmu Mountain thanks to a bill submitted by six botanists at the national session of the CPPCC. In 1982, China set up 20 national nature reserves. The Tianmu Mountain National Nature Reserve was the smallest of the 20 but the fifth on the list. As soon as the reserve was set up, the provincial government took action: over 300 people in 80 plus households were relocated out of the reserve. Adequate funds have been provided for administrative and scientific purposes since the inception of the nature reserve.endprint

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