于倩倩 陈慰来 王金凤

摘 要：以Dralon超细旦腈纶纤维、黏胶纤维和棉纤维为原料，选用舌针单面四针道圆纬机编织纬平针针织结构，探究纤维原料比例不同对运动面料耐用性和舒适性的影响，进行透气性、热湿舒适性、抗起毛起球等实验;并且为了应对户外的雨水天气，采用亨斯迈公司无氟防水剂，按照比例进行调配后将面料进行浸轧防水整理，探讨防水整理前后对织物性能的影响;运用模糊决策的数学分析方法，来判断元素综合效果，选取综合性能最佳的原料比例，优化运动面料的制备工艺。结果表明：经过防水整理之后面料防水效果达到4级以上，并且对面料的手感和基本性能影响不大，对织物透气和透湿性能略有影响;在水洗后仍具有良好的防水性，能有效地提升运动面料的使用性能，为运动面料的功能化提供了一种新思路。

关键词：超细旦腈纶;运动面料;无氟防水剂;热舒适性

中图分类号： TS156

文献标志码：A

文章编号：1009-265X（2021）06-0072-06

收稿日期：2020-09-28 网络首发日期：2021-04-15

基金项目：浙江理工大学研究生培养基金项目

作者简介：于倩倩（1996-），女，山东威海人，硕士研究生，主要从事针织新产品设计与开发方面的研究。

通信作者：王金凤，E-mail：wangjinfengwjs@163.com

Research on Development and Waterproof Finishing of Dralon UltrafineAcrylic Fiber Sports Fabric

YU Qianqian， CHEN Weilai， WANG Jinfeng

（College of Textile Science and Engineering（International Institute of Silk），Zhejiang Sci-Tech University， Hangzhou 310018， China）

Abstract： With Dralon ultrafine acrylic fiber， viscose fiber and cotton fiber as the raw materials， this paper selected a latch needle single-sided four-needle-way circular knitting machine to knit a weft plain-knitted structure， probed into the effects of different fibrous material ratios on the durability and comfort of sports fabrics， and experimented on air permeability， thermal comfort and anti-pilling performance， etc. In response to rainy weather outdoors， a fluorine-free waterproofing agent from Huntsman Corporation was also adopted. After being blended by a certain ratio， the fabric was subjected to padding and waterproof finishing. The effect of waterproof finishing on fabric properties was discussed， the integrated effect of elements was judged by using the mathematical analysis method of fuzzy decision. The proportion of raw materials with the best comprehensive performance was selected to optimize the preparation process of sports fabrics. The results suggested that the waterproof effect of the fabric could reach above Grade 4 after waterproof finishing， which had little impact on the hand feel and basic properties of the fabric， but a slight influence on the air permeability and moisture permeability of the fabric. It still has good water resistance after washing， which can effectively improve the performance of sports fabrics， and provides a new way of thinking for the functionalization of sports fabrics.

Key words： ultrafine acrylic fiber; sports fabric; fluorine-free waterproof agent; thermal comfort

最近幾年，户外运动深受大家的喜爱，成为人们缓解压力、释放身心的重要方式。对于应对户外雨雪的极端天气，国内户外防水透气面料的开发处于初级阶段，本文采用超细旦异形腈纶为原料，探究其与防水整理剂的结合，拓展户外运动服装产品的选择。……