赵丰 王淑娟 王乐

内容摘要：敦煌莫高窟北区的B121窟可能属于瘗窟，窟中出土了一具女性遗骨，同时也出土了各类织物约十余件。这些织物从材料上看有丝、有棉、有金线;从织绣品种上看包括红色莲鱼龙纹绫、锁甲纹缎、红地花间翔凤纳石失锦、红地动物纹妆金纱、深蓝地柿蒂窠花卉纹刺绣等;而从款式上看，则有红色莲鱼龙纹绫袍和柿蒂窠花卉纹刺绣拼布等。一则说明窟中埋葬的年轻女性有着一定的身份，生前穿着元代典型的丝绸服装。服装品质较高，图案时尚，同时也说明元代的敦煌还是丝绸贸易兴盛和时尚流行的重要城市。

关键词：莫高窟北区;元;丝绸;刺绣;织金锦

中图分类号：K879.21;K875.2  文献标识码：A  文章编号：1000-4106（2021）04-0004-13

Abstract：A recent excavation of Cave B121 at the northern area of Mogao unearthed a female corpse， relics， and more than 10 pieces of textiles， indicating that this cave may have been used as a burial site. The textiles are made of silk， cotton， and gold thread and are embroidered with various patterns， including red cloth embroidered with lotus， fish， and dragons， satin brocade with a chain motif， red nasich brocade with flowers and flying phoenixes， gold gauze with animal patterns on a red background， and four-petalled medallions embroidered on a dark blue background. In terms of the style in which the clothing articles were designed， most of the items were made using red cloth embroidered with lotus， fish， and dragons or are a patchwork cloth embroidered with four-petalled medallions. The quality of the cloth and fashionable designs used to make these textiles provide clues as to the family background of the young lady buried in the cave， and moreover indicate that Dunhuang during the Yuan dynasty was an important location for silk trade where fashionable costumes were popular.

Keywords：Northern area at Mogao; Yuan dynasty; silk; embroidery

1988—1995年，敦煌研究院考古研究所以彭金章為领队的考古工作人员对莫高窟北区的所有洞窟进行了科学、全面、系统的清理发掘。其中可能属于瘗窟的B121窟出土了女性遗骨，也出土了各类织物约十余件。初步整理的考古资料已发表于彭金章、王建军《敦煌莫高窟北区石窟》的考古报告[1]。2013年，出土文物又委托中国丝绸博物馆进行保护和修复，在《千缕百衲：敦煌莫高窟出土纺织品的保护与研究》中得以展示[2]。这些织物从材料上看有丝、有棉、有金线;从织绣品种上看有绫、缎、织金锦、妆金纱、刺绣等;从款式上看则有袍和拼布等。本文拟对该窟所出丝绸文物逐件说明，并对其中若干重要文物谈一些认识。

一 B121窟出土纺织品综述

B121窟分前后两室，中有甬道相连。……