王小艳 杜金梅 蒋阳 许长海

摘要： 为解决纱线色深不合格造成的色纱浪费问题，文章研究了不同颜色深度色纱与色织物之间颜色相关性，探讨了色深不合格的色纱织成织物后，织物颜色与目标织物颜色一致的可能性。结果表明，同深度色纱织成织物的颜色深度相较于纱线会降低;异深度色纱织物的颜色深度具有可预测性。对于平纹色织物，当经纬纱线的同色性指数在0.81～1.23时，异深度色纱织物与同深度色纱织物具有相同的预测模型，且要求预测偏差为2%时，准确率可达85.53%;同色性指数在此范围内的经纬色纱可被重新使用以得到色深合格的织物，从而避免浪费。

关键词： 色纱;色织物;颜色深度;同色性指数;颜色预测

中图分类号： TS151.9

文献标志码： A

Abstract： Colored yarns that are disqualified in color depths for yarn-dyed fabrics are usually discarded or left unused in current industry. In this paper， the color correlation between the colored yarns and yarn-dyed fabrics with different color depths was investigated， to explore the possibility that that the colors of fabrics woven from colored-yarns that were disqualified in color depths matched the colors of target fabrics. The results showed that the color depth of a fabric woven from colored-yarn with the same depth was lower than that of yarn， and the color depths of fabrics woven from colored-yarns with different depths was predictable. For a plain weave yarn-dyed fabric， when the homochromy index（K） of warp/weft yarn was 0.81-1.23， fabrics woven from colored-yarns with different depths and those with the same depth had the same color prediction model. When a prediction bias of 2% was required， the accuracy of prediction model was up to 85.53%. It was indicated that colored yarns that were disqualified in color depths within this homochromy index range can be reused to obtain fabrics qualified in color depths， to avoid waste.

Key words： colored yarns; yarn-dyed fabric; color depth; homochromy index; color prediction

色织物是由有色纱线织造而成的织物，年产量超30亿 m[1]。与印染布相比，色织物具有风格独特、色彩丰富、立体感强等特点[2-3]。用于色织物的色纱一般是通过筒子纱染色获得，但筒子纱染色很难控制筒纱的外层、中层及内层颜色深度完全相同[4]，且每一批筒子纱之间的颜色深度也有差异，这些都会造成染出的纱线颜色深度与目标纱线颜色深度不一致，即产生了颜色深度不合格的色纱[5-6]。为保证产品质量，色织厂通常将颜色深度不达标色纱丢弃或闲置，这造成了大量色纱的浪费[7]。

色织物的颜色不仅取决于经纬纱线的颜色，还与织物的组织结构密切相关[8-9]。所以，即使是同色的经纬纱线，织成织物的颜色与纱线的颜色也可能不同[10]。……