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酸辣粉“嗦”出的成渝味

2020-09-10高维微

今日重庆 2020年10期

高维微

不知从何时起,“嗦粉”突然成了热词、趣事,江西、湖南、贵州、广西,全国各地的“嗦粉”爱好者纷纷晒出自己心目中的“粉界花魁”,一时间天南地北各种口味的粉搅动着味道江湖。相对于螺蛳粉这类“网红粉”,成渝地区的这碗“粉”显然资格更老、名气更大。

与大多数地方“粉”所指代的米粉不同,成渝地区食客口中的“粉”,多指用红薯粉制成的酸辣粉。

好吃的酸辣粉,有一种如炖猪蹄般的软糯口感,又酸又辣的滋味总是让人欲罢不能,一口嗦下去,滑溜溜的,胶原蛋白口感的粉会“哧溜”一下滑入口中。

嗦完粉,食客们还会伸出舌头,将吸附在唇上的汁水舔掉。对于有经验的老饕来说,这一舔至关重要,照他们的说法,酸与辣融合得好不好,味道全在唇上沾的那点汁水里。

The phrase "slurping rice noodles" crept in at some point and suddenly became a hot word. Keen fans of rice noodles from Jiangxi, Hunan, Guizhou, Guangxi, and all over the country then rush to share the"best rice noodles" in their mind. For a split second, rice noodles of various flavors from both the south and the north have got a change to flourish. Compared with the "network celebrities" such as Liuzhou river snails rice noodle, the rice noodles in Chengdu and Chongqing enjoy more prominent reputation and popularity.

Unlike rice noodles in most places, people in Chengdu and Chongqing refer to the hot and sour rice noodles made of sweet potato flour when they talk about rice noodles.

The delicious hot and sour rice noodles tastes softly and glutinously, just like stewed pig’s trotters. The sour and spicy taste of rice noodles is irresistible to all. Slurping a mouthful of the slippery, collagen-tasting rice noodles, you will feel it slide into your mouth at one stroke.

Finishing eating, diners will stick their tongues out and lick off the juice on their lips. For experienced gourmets, the last lick is very important. In their words, they can judge whether the acid and spicy mix well or not from the juice on the lip.

要吃一碗正宗的酸辣粉,自然得是手工制作的红薯粉,最好是现场制作的。

更讲究一些的店家,还会用高汤做底。当滚烫的高汤和佐料相逢,空气中立马弥漫开一种独特的酸辣香味。

如果說佐料是酸辣粉的灵魂,那盖在酸辣粉上的浇头,则是承载这抹灵魂的肉体。

A bowl of authentic hot and sour rice noodles must be handmade from sweet potato powder, preferably made on site.

Some experienced restaurant owners may use stock as the base. When the hot stock meets the ingredients, a unique sour and spicy fragrance will immediately float in the air.

If the condiments are the soul of the hot and sour rice noodles, then the topping covering the rice noodles will be the body carrying the soul.

成都人最钟爱肥肠浇头,成都青石桥街可以说是肥肠粉的“大本营”,每家的味道各有千秋。老瓦房肥肠粉、复兴肥肠粉,算得上这条街乃至成都肥肠粉里的“扛把子”。

说到成都的肥肠粉,就不得不说“冒节子”。冒节子,就是有一段在红油里“冒”(烫)过的猪小肠。在成都,吃肥肠粉不加冒节子,就跟麻婆豆腐不撒花椒面一样。它被成都人称为只要两块钱就能提升整碗肥肠粉境界的灵魂食物。……

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