Zhu Congcong

Abstract：With the increasing improvement of people's living standards，people's aesthetic way of life has changed a lot，clothing，food，housing and transportation began to pursue a higher level，people's daily clothes have become more and more leisure and fashion.As an innovative fashion modeling method，garment pleat design can not only enrich the forms of fashion design，but also meet people's requirements for fashion modeling.

key word：Clothing;clothing modeling;pleating;design method

1. The characteristics and functions of pleating modeling

1.1The characteristics of pleating modeling

The characteristics of pleating modeling are mainly divided into aesthetics，practicality and modeling.

（1）Beauty.The garment three-dimensional modeling effect formed by pleating has strong aesthetics and decoration. On the basis of conforming to the structure and function of the human body，it can change the body characteristics of the wearer and show different visual effects.Because the position，size and direction of pleats are different，the influence on the beauty of clothing is also different.The modeling design of pleating is subjective，which is decided by different ideas of designers.In a word，the pleating design technique in fashion design can make the clothing more in line with the human body structure and reflect the beauty of clothing. Therefore，the pleating modeling has a certain beauty.

（2）Practicality.Whether it is winter or summer clothing，we can often see the design of cuffs and trouser legs，such as the design of screw cuffs in sportswear.Similarly，we can achieve this effect by using pleating. In pleating design，pleating at sleeves，cuffs and trouser legs can not only increase the beauty of clothing，but also enhance the practicality of clothing.

1.2The function of pleating modeling

The purpose of pleat design is to better express the clothing modeling. The function of pleat design in clothing modeling is mainly divided into two aspects：shaping the human body structure and enhancing the beauty of clothing.

（1）Shape the body structure.The carrier of fashion design is fabric. All fashion design must be based on the basic human body structure to make clothing wearable and practical.Pleat design is to make clothing better shape the human body structure，different pleat design performance position，are based on the human body structure，such as women's clothing in the waist，shoulder pleat design.

（2）Enhance the beauty of clothing.The three-dimensional modeling design of garment pleating is based on the human body structure. In addition，it has a positive role in modifying and improving the effect of garment modeling.For example，the design of pleats on the hem，the two sides of the placket，the shoulder and the neckline can improve the visual beauty of clothing and enhance the three-dimensional modeling of clothing to a certain extent.

2.The design method of pleating modeling

2.1Forming method of pleating

In fashion design，pleating as a very common design technique is used in the three-dimensional modeling of clothing. The composition of pleating modeling is mainly divided into the location，shape and quantity of pleating modeling. The above are the three basic factors of pleating three-dimensional modeling design.

2.2 Modeling design of pleating

（1）Straight line pleated design.This kind of pleating design is consistent with the linear structure of the human body，which is the most widely used in the jacket and skirt. The visual effect of this kind of pleating design is mainly strong order and dynamic. The linear pleating design is also reflected in the sleeves and dresses.

（2）Curved pleated design.This kind of pleated garment modeling effect is lively，elegant and elegant，which is often used in the design of women's upper body and lower hem.In the women's chest，waist and skirt hem position can be curved pleated modeling，and the direction of pleated design，can reflect the beautiful posture of women's clothing，highlighting the characteristics of women's body structure.

3.The application of pleating in fashion design

3.1 Location of tuck

（1）Pleats on the sleeves.In fashion design，sleeve，as a clothing part with great designability，has always been favored by various designers.

（2）Pleats on the body.Most of the pleats are concentrated in the front and waist，which are attached to the garment structure and play a role in shaping the human body.

（3）Pleated at the hem.The pleating design is applied to the hem of the skirt and dress to show the effect of wave pleating，which can highlight the A-shape of the skirt and make the whole dress more elegant，soft and dynamic.

3.2 The shape of the tuck

According to the visual effect and method of pleating，the shape of pleating in fashion design can be divided into round，straight，wavy and so on.Generally speaking，the pleating design at the turning point of the body is in the form of curve，while the pleating design on the body and trousers is generally in the form of straight line.

（1）Round tuck.Compared with other forms of pleats，circular pleats are different in that the emission pleats caused by circular pleats are neat and symmetrical，which is more conducive to the shaping of X-shape clothing.

（2）Straight line pleating.On the basis of fitting the human body structure，the linear pleating design will make the design parts appear more orderly and dynamic，and enhance the visual beauty of clothing.

（3）Wave pleating.Wave pleat design appears in the local，one is to maintain the overall sense of balance of clothing，but to highlight the performance of human body structure and beautify the visual effect of clothing，pleat design is a more common modeling design techniques.

（作者單位：School of art and design，Qilu University of Technology（Shandong Academy of Sciences））