秦鸥 江文才 谈益妹

[摘要]目的：探讨清洁类化妆品功效评价方法。方法：对30例健康女性志愿者进行自身对照临床研究。在前臂屈侧分别涂抹粉底液、睫毛膏及唇膏后用卸妆油进行清洁，在涂样前、涂样后及清洁后应用Corneometer? 825、Primos和I-scope进行角质层含水量检测和图像采集。结果：用卸妆油进行清洁后，粉底液、睫毛膏和唇膏涂抹区域皮肤角质层含水量均较涂样前显著升高；涂样前及清洁后Primos所有皱纹参数均较涂样后显著升高，清洁后 Sa、Sq、V2和粉底液区域Sdr与涂样前存在显著性差异；I-scope图像分析显示涂样后皮肤表面纹理中化妆品填充面积显著增加，清洁后填充面积较涂样后显著减少。结论：Corneometer? 825、Primos和I-scope三种无创检测仪器结合应用能初步对清洁类化妆品的功效进行评价。

[关键词]化妆品；清洁类；无创检测仪器；自身对照研究；功效评价

[中图分类号]TQ658 [文献标志码]A [文献编号]1008-6455（2018）06-0064-04

Abstract： Objective To investigate the efficacy evaluation method of cleaning cosmetics. Methods A self-controlled clinical study was performed in 30 healthy women volunteers.Foundation，mascara and lipstick were applied separately on flexor side of forearm， then cleansed by cleansing oil. Corneometer? 825，Primos and I-scope were measured before （baseline） and after products applying and after products cleaning. Results Capitance were significantly increased after cleaning compared with baseline；parameter of Primos at baseline and after cleaning were significantly increased compared with products applying，however after cleaning，Sa，Sq，V2 at all regions and Sdr at foundation applying area were obviously raised compared with baseline；Image of I-scope illustrated that areas filled with cosmetics in skin texture were raised evidently after products applying， however decreased evidently after cleaning. Conclusion The combination of Corneometer? 825，Primos and I-scope could initially evaluate the efficacy of cleaning cosmetics，subsequent studies should be combined with the detection of transepidermal water loss to improve the evaluation method more scientifically.

Key words： cosmetics； cleaning； noninvasive measurement instruments； self-controlled study； efficacy evaluation

皮膚的正确清洁是维护皮肤屏障功能的基本要求，清洁类化妆品的功效应从两方面进行评价，一是对皮肤的清洁能力，二是能够维持正常的皮肤屏障功能[1]。笔者采用无创检测仪器对市售卸妆产品的清洁功效进行评价，以期为清洁类化妆品的功效评价提供新途径和方法。

1 资料和方法

1.1 一般资料：健康女性志愿者30例，年龄18～57岁，平均年龄（35.07±11.3）岁。

1.1.1 纳入标准：①年龄18～60岁女性志愿者，有使用卸妆产品的习惯；②前臂皮肤健康，无皮肤病及影响试验的因素；③前臂皮肤最近3个月内未经过暴晒，未使用过去角质产品；④无过敏性疾病，无化妆品及其它外用制剂过敏史；……