陈敬玉 张萌萌

摘要： 彩帶编织工具简单灵活，织纹效果明显，是畲族特有的服饰手工艺制品。在非遗传承人访谈和现场观摩记录编织流程的基础上结合文献，将其工艺流程分为备纱、整经、提综、织纹、收口五个步骤，根据样品分析得出彩带为表里交换的双层提花组织。综合田野调查和文献分析的结果，总结彩带的要素特征主要有：经锦式的组织结构、表意的字符图案和丰富的民俗文化内涵，在此基础上对彩带图案进行整理和记录，按其寓意分为自然类、生活类和信仰祝愿类，并对其在当代社会的嬗变进行了分析，提出多方位协同保护的观点。

关键词： 畲族；彩带；要素特征；当代；嬗变；服饰

中图分类号： TS941.12；J523.5

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 1001-7003（2018）06-0083-08

引用页码： 061302

Abstract： As a peculiar costume handicraft works of She nationality， colored sash has obvious weave grain and simple tools. On basis of interview with the intangible cultural heritage inheritors and the field observation of weave process records， the technological process was divided into five steps： yarn preparation， warping， shedding， weaving and binding off. According to the analysis of the sample， it is found that colored sash is the outside-inside switched double-deck figured texture weave. Element characteristics of the colored sash were summarized as follows by combining the results of field survey and literature analysis， tissue structure of brocade type， ideographic character pattern， and the rich folk culture connotation. On this basis， the patterns of the colored sash were sorted out and recorded， and they were divided into three categories according to implied meanings： nature， life and faith. Its transmutation in the contemporary society was also investigated. Finally， the view of of comprehensive coordination protection was proposed.

Key words： She nationality； colored sash； element characteristics； contemporary era； transmutation； costume

畲族彩带工艺精美、用途广泛，是畲族特有的手工艺品，无论从工艺技术还是审美都具有非常高的研究价值。彩带又叫“拦腰带”“合手巾带”“带子”“字带”等，是畲族历史悠久、流传广泛的传统服饰手工艺品，既是服装的装饰物，还用作腰带、背兜带等生活实用品，同时还是畲族青年男女定情的信物和定亲回礼及驱邪祝福的吉祥物。彩带传说始于畲族女始祖三公主上天时留给畲族小妹的报晓鸡，寄托了对畲族后代婚姻美满、生活幸福的美好祝愿，从此畲族妇女代代相传织起了彩带，开始了一个民族延续千年的“人文接力”[1]。2007年，景宁畲族自治县畲族彩带编织技艺进入第二批浙江省非物质文化遗产名录。……