嘉仁

以挖掘和展示浙江民间美食文化为特征的《中国浙菜·乡土美食》（简称《食美浙江》）一书，近年来从众多的美食类书籍中脱颖而出。它的问世，如同春天漫山遍野的植物一样，迅速地在各地开花：《食美杭州》《食美台州》《食美海宁》《食美温岭》《食美乐清》……相继出版的以“食美”为主题的地方美食系列书籍，上架后就成为畅销之作。据红旗出版社透露，还有一些地方的“食美系列”书籍在等待出版。

《食美浙江》是浙江省第一部由政府支持、专业团队编写、传媒界等社会各方面人士广泛参与的乡土美食菜谱。164味地道佳肴、34款暖心小点、10席纯正民俗家宴……书中的这些美味，从浙江民间报送的近700个菜品中精选而出。它们是浙江乡土菜肴的代表，来自寻常百姓家的灶台。

人们对美食的热爱是发自内心的。这套被称为“舌尖上的浙江宝典”的系列菜谱，让人味蕾大开，更将美食浙江的精髓诠释得极其透彻。美食浙江的文化魅力从何而来，成为了一个值得思考的话题。

乡味，浓缩了故土情怀

为什么美食能引起这么多人的共鸣？食色，人性之最大的追求。凡热爱生活的人，无不对食物充满了好奇和喜爱。

古今中外，关于美食的美好故事不一而足，很多名人也是美食的爱好者。鲁迅曾在《朝花夕拾》的引言里说：“我有一时，曾经屡次忆起儿时在故乡所吃的蔬果：菱角，罗汉豆，茭白，香瓜。凡这些，都是极其鲜美可口的；都曾是使我思乡的蛊惑。”

鲁迅先生是绍兴人，他很爱绍兴的梅干菜，他在小说《风波》中就曾写到女人端出“乌黑的蒸干菜和松花黄的米饭，热蓬蓬冒烟”的生活场景。绍兴梅干菜色泽黄黑，脆落爽利，咀嚼起来满口留香。“梅干菜烧肉”这道家常菜，更将干菜同脂滑肉嫩的五花肉形成绝配。鲁迅先生的日记中，也提到家里母亲专门给他寄来各种菜干，即使无法回到故乡，只消一碟乌黑干菜，一碗绍兴黄酒，就能让他深深地感受到故乡的味道。

另一位大师丰子恺是浙江桐乡人，他在《忆儿时》中记述了儿时与家人一起吃蟹的情景。“先拆蟹脚，后开蟹斗……蟹螯上的骨头可以拼成一只很好看的蝴蝶……父亲吃蟹真是内行，吃得非常干净。”他将父亲吃蟹的风雅之事描写得淋漓尽致，平实的文字勾勒出江南人家的日常生活。

特别是在旅居他乡时，丰子恺更是怀念家乡美味。以至于在寓居上海的弄堂时，他依然保存着故乡石门的生活习惯。“我们是浙江石门湾人，住在上海，也只管说石门湾的土白。吃石门湾的菜，度石门湾似的生活……这真是一种奇妙的生活。”

与石门相隔不远的水乡乌镇，是文学家茅盾的故乡。茅盾对家乡的“三珍斋”卤味可谓情有独钟，上世纪二三十年代，居住在上海的他常常到上海百富门大陸商场的三珍斋（现今的汉口路上）购买三珍斋酱鸡、酱鸭馈赠亲友，因为这是乌镇三珍斋老店每天乘快班轮船送往上海销售的新鲜货。

渗透在故乡食物里的乡愁，一点一滴地弥散开来，牵动的是人们对家乡的眷恋。人们收获、保存、烹饪、生产美食，并在其过程中留存和传承食物所承载的味觉记忆、饮食习俗、文化样态和家常情感。以食物为窗口，可以发现一个地方的文化传统、家族观念、生活态度与故土情怀。

乡土美食的食材都取自当地，保证最纯正天然和接近本地的口味。嘉善人的枣香肉，在制作时用新鲜的稻草将肉捆扎一起熬炖，做出来的肉薄皮嫩滑味醇汁浓。温州人的鱼饼，用东海的鮸鱼、马鲛鱼等新鲜海水鱼为主原料，配以独特的调味品，肉质鲜嫩，鲜而不腥。

开化人为什么对青蛳念念不忘？青蛳这种生长于钱塘江源头深谷幽涧里的生物，因为生长的水体高度净洁，所以品质优良。青蛳最地道的烧法也体现开化特色，一把紫苏，再佐以辣椒、胡椒、葱姜等衢州人热爱的辛香调料，不仅去腥提鲜，又能中和青蛳的寒性，使青蛳的鲜美在汤汁中展现得淋漓尽致。

一出开化难觅青蛳。这是青蛳对环境的苛刻使然，也是开化人对家乡山水满满的自豪。每一个爱家乡的人，都热爱自家的传统食物，美食是与一个地方的水土密不可分的。一饭一食里，是满满的故土情怀。

食材，绘制了人的图谱

为什么美食可以作为一种共同的语言？因为舌尖通向世界。在地球上的角角落落，不论来自什么种族，说什么样的方言，有什么样的生活方式和习俗，只要归结到食物，大家都有共通的追求：健康、生态、绿色。越根植于自然，越被奉为美食中的上品。

食物与人一直具有天然密切的联系：食材的种植获得需要人，食材的烹调需要人，食物的享用者最终也是人。从这个意义上看，每一部美食宝典，也是一部探讨人与食物关系的图谱。

将世界美食和中国美食进行比照，春耕、夏耘、秋收、冬藏，四季更替让人类的饮食依时而变。在天地间升起烟火，用至精至诚的心意烹制食物，在一餐一食之间，不同国家和民族的人们展示个性，发现了世界的奥妙。

美食生长于传统的沃土，在文化时空中给予人们珍贵的滋养。我们近观的是饮食之美，远眺的是不同文化的魂魄。前不久有一则有趣的新闻，一对一句外语不会讲的打工夫妻，在浙江大学边上开了一家意式披萨店，竟然吸引了很多外国留学生，大呼吃到了家乡的味道。

有的时候，美食就像一股神奇的力量，拉近了人们的距离。作家木心曾长期旅居海外，口味照理是“很四海”了。但他曾在《少年朝食》中写道：“清早阳光/照明高墙一角/喜鹊喀喀叫/天井花坛葱茏/丫鬟悄声报用膳/紫檀圆桌四碟端陈/姑苏酱鸭/平湖糟蛋/撕蒸笋/豆干末子拌马兰头/莹白的暖暖香粳米粥/没有比粥更温柔的了……”几样清清淡淡的日常小食，将我们拉回到那个氤氲的江南清晨。

意大利人吃饭喜爱边喝酒边聊天，推崇慢餐，认为这才是真正的饮食文化。这一点，和中国人的习俗十分相似。当然，与西方“菜生而鲜、食分而餐”的饮食文化相比，中国菜更讲究色、香、味、形、器，在一系列意境的追逐中，中国厨师像魔术师，将中国人对美食的理解演绎至化境。

中国美食文化如此博大精深，越来越风靡全球。在世界很多国家和城市，甚至一些并不知名的小城，都会有一家或几家中餐馆在当地小有名气，它们是华人的聚餐场所，也是很多当地人喜爱的馆子，宫爆鸡丁、麻婆豆腐、酸菜鱼……这些中国人耳熟能详的菜名，老外说起来也朗朗上口。

美食抵達每个人的心，这是文化离你最近的时候。杭州人为什么对片儿川情有独钟？这种用雪菜、笋片、肉丝作为浇头的普通面条，透出的是江南春的味道。杭州人拍过一部电影叫《幸福的片儿川》，影片里几个人物的生活理念特别有意思：剧中人老孙头认为，给孙子吃得好穿得好就是幸福。而孙子认为，幸福是自己以及身边的人都能快乐生活。隔壁面馆的老板和伙计的幸福，则是店里的客人来得多一点再多一点。

作为杭州市井文化中比较有代表性的食物，在影片中，片儿川泛指杭州精神，故事中它不仅是一碗面，已经化身成了杭州老百姓的写照。

朋友圈曾经热转过一段视频：一对浙江农村的空巢老人，春节是他们最开心的时刻。当儿孙从城市回来，亲手为儿孙制作可口的年糕，一家人吃着年糕说着家常。而当春节短暂的团聚后，儿孙们各自开车离去，曾经热闹温暖的家顿时空寂冷清下来，又只剩下这对老人。

这些城市化进程中的令人熟悉的场景，不禁让人心生诸多感慨。我们穿行于现代社会，亲情的维系，更多的执念是在一张饭桌子上的事。食物传递的是人情和人性，每一部走红的美食书和美食纪录片里，都藏着人间的味道，美好的食物、温暖的故事，这些都是对奔波焦躁的心灵最好的抚慰和治愈。《食美浙江》丛书的吸引力，也是用一个个故事串联起浙江各地的食物生态，告诉读者：舌尖上什么是浙江，什么是浙江人心灵的寄托所在。

乡村，酝酿着新的振兴

为什么美食会在新的时代成为新的流行？因为藏在美食里的不仅是味道，更是人生的精、气、神。第三季《舌尖上的中国》海报，用了中国红为主色调，加上一句“品味中国、品尝人生”的宣传语，让人印象深刻。片子里最触动人心的画面，是一个镜头里中国人吃饭的圆桌。镜头上拉，就变成了一个家族在吃饭；再上拉，变成了中国人的家宅。

一桌饭里，有沧海桑田，有家学流传，有中国菜，更有中国人。挖掘美食浙江的深层基因，更是重新发现浙江精神的历程。如果可以拍一部《舌尖上的浙江》，其实背后说得更多的是“浙江人的活法”。

千岛湖的鱼“游”起来了。依托优质的淡水鱼资源，通过创新经营，“淳”牌千岛湖有机鱼成为首家通过认证的有机鱼食品，淳安县也因此被命名为“中国有机鱼之乡”。把“有形的鱼”变为“创意的鱼”，把“吃的鱼”变为“文化的鱼”，千岛湖实现了从传统渔业、品牌渔业到文化渔业的转型升级。

缙云的烧饼走向世界了。不久前，缙云收到了一份大礼——欧盟知识产权办公室颁发的商标注册证书。近年来，当地通过国际化、品牌化、标准化、特色化建设，让烧饼这一乡土小吃走出乡村，形成了一条特色产业链，带动了近两万农民增收。截至2017年底，烧饼品牌示范店多达431家，遍及全国各省（区、市）和欧美、东南亚等12个国家和地区。

这些原本生长于乡野的美食风靡全国，背后是一群人的执着与奋斗。乡村振兴，产业兴旺是重点。乡土美食，来源于“乡”，又脱胎于“土”，是活着的民俗和历史，也是生动的人文地理，是乡村振兴的重要着力点。

美食里，总是藏着最好的中国故事。一代又一代人在灶台边，留存着最深的文化与记忆。当下，在乡村振兴战略指引下，更应该着力发挥乡土美食的文化价值。

很喜欢《舌尖上的中国》第一季的一段旁白：

这是巨变的中国，

人和食物，比任何时候都走得更快，

无论他们的脚步怎样匆忙，

不管聚散和悲欢，

来得多么不由自主，

总有一种味道，以其独有的方式，

每天三次，在舌尖上提醒着我们，

认清明天的去向，

不忘昨日的来处。

is a book project supported by the Zhejiang Provincial Government， written by a team of specialists， and sponsored by the provincial media. Published in 2014， the book registers 165 dishes， 34 desserts and cakes， and ten multiple-courses home banquets. The recipes were selected from nearly 700 that came forward from grassroots kitchens across the province.

The book has inspired local talents and spawned a series of similar books on regional recipes. After all， Zhejiang has 11 administrative regions at the traditional city or prefectural level and the 700 recipes for the original book came from a much larger databank. One word about “rural” in the book title： modernization is something new only over the last 40 years. Before the beginning of the new era， a big part of the population of the province lived in rural regions； rural kitchens provided the best taste and memory for the general public. “Urban recipes” did not exist at all back then.

and other books have birthed many cultural topics. One general yet outstanding topic is the cultural charms of the rural recipes in Zhejiang cuisine.

This isnt a new topic， however. Ancient masters of literature living in Zhejiang discussed this topic and a number of masters of literature living in the province in the 20th century talked about delicious food of their hometowns in essays and books.

Lu Xun （1881-1936）， the most popular penname of Zhou Shuren， a native of Shaoxing， loved his hometown food. In an essay， he wrote about a favorite dish in his childhood years. In his diary he kept a list of dehydrated vegetables his mother had sent him all the way from hometown. Feng Zikai （1898-1975）， a painter and essayist， recalled a crab banquet at home in his childhood years in an essay titled “Childhood Memories”. The essay vividly describes how the father demolished a crab adroitly and elegantly. In another essay， he described his yearning for everything at hometown in Zhejiang even though he lived in Shanghai. “We are from Shimenwan， Zhejiang though we are now living in Shanghai. We speak the Shimenwan dialect， enjoy Shimenwan cuisine and lead a life in the Shimenwan style，” he proudly declared in the essay. Mao Dun （1896-1981）， a novelist from Wuzhen， mentioned in an essay how he enjoyed the ducks and the chickens seasoned in soy sauce made by a shop in his hometown. Living in Shanghai， he often went to the Shanghai branch of the shop from his hometown and bought the duck and the chicken and gave them to his relatives and friends as gifts. Back then， the shop in Wuzhen shipped the delicacies daily to Shanghai through the steamer service via the canal system that connected the northern Zhejiang to Shanghai.

Food connects people with their homes and keeps alive memories about childhood and people and hometown. Producing food is what agriculture is all about. For thousands of years， Zhejiang has been a powerhouse of food production. People take care of food crops， harvest them， place them into storage and cook them in various styles. The way they do these things has differentiated and localized lifestyles and memories. Rural recipes provide a time-space view of regional culture and tradition， family， worldviews， attitudes toward life， memories， and sentiments no matter whether a region is a prefecture， a county， a town， a village， or as small as a home.

The rural recipes in the book present a large range of local food ingredients. These recipes suggest that ingredients for a dish are all local and natural and the result is always purely natural and in compliance with the local taste. In Jiashan， for example， pork chop is bound with fresh straw directly from the rice paddy before pork is cooked. In Wenzhou， a fish pie is made of brown croaker or mackerel from the East China Sea. In Kaihua， snails are cooked with herbals to remove the unpleasant muddy smell and intensify the delicious flavor. Such local delicacies are usually confined to one region. Go beyond a region and you dont know what they are and even whether they exist.

Food is a universal language. No matter where you go and what language you speak. Nowadays people still want food to maintain health； moreover， people want food produced from a well- maintained ecological system and want this production system to remain “green”. Food and mankind have a natural bond. People produce food， cook food， and enjoy food. In this sense， every book of recipes explores this intimacy between food and humanity. When one browse recipe books from all over the world， one can see how people in different parts of the world explore wonders and mysteries of nature. Delicacies are from tradition and culture and in turn enrich tradition and culture. We appreciate the beauty of food when we sit down at a table and enjoy food. We see the charms of different cultures when recipes and delicacies are examined metaphysically. According to a news media in Hangzhou， a young couple opened a pizza restaurant by a campus of Zhejiang University. Though the couple speaks no foreign language， the pizza attracts a large following of international students.

Chinese food has long since gone global. Chinese restaurants can be found almost anywhere. They are the place where local Chinese community meets and enjoys food. Menus from Chinese restaurants are known to local gourmets.

Food in Zhejiang is no longer a rural thing now. As restaurants in both villages and cities are blossoming， food production is also flourishing. Qiandao Lake in Chunan County in the southwest of Hangzhou is now a big provider of organic fish. In 2017， Qiandao Lake Development Group alone sold 3.5 million kilos of organic fish worth 500 million yuan. Nowadays， fish farming in Chunan is a complete industrial chain， from fish farms to restaurants， from tourism to scientific researches.

Jinyun， a rural county in the south of Zhejiang， now enjoys a new fame as a maker of Jinyun （a kind of cake with some stuffing inside and black sesame seeds on the surface）. By the end of 2017， Jinyun industry in Jinyun topped 1.5 billion yuan in annual sales. Averagely， a cake maker earns about 100，000 yuan a year. About 20，000 rural residents are engaged in this business. Nowadays， there are 431 franchised Jinyun shops all over China as well as in 12 countries and regions across the world. In March， 2018， the county received the certificate of registration of Jinyun from European Union Intellectual Property Office， an important recognition of the trademark.