译/孙力

The Achingly Cool Coffee Shops

情调咖啡馆

Forget Gulou—we’re going to go out on a limb and say that Dashilan has the greatest concentration of cool coffee shops per square meter in Beijing.That’s right—from artisanal Soloist Coffee at 39 Yangmeizhu Xiejie (where they brew only the finest and you can recline in old salvaged armchairs)to Berry Beans, an early 20th century brothel that’s been converted into a gorgeous café with a little terrace (No.7 Zhujia Hutong).

忘了鼓楼吧——虽然有点夸张，我们还是要宣称，大栅栏才是北京有趣咖啡馆最集中的所在。的确如此——比如，位于杨梅竹斜街39号的Soloist Coffee，专注于匠人手冲咖啡，出品绝对顶级，你可以倚靠在老旧椅子里慢慢享用；再比如，位于朱家胡同7号的Berry Beans，原址在20世纪初是家妓院，现在改造成了一家有个小平台的精致咖啡馆。

The Hip Restaurants

时尚餐厅

Hunan resto The Southern Fish (166 Yangmeizhu Xiejie) flew under the radar for years until they made it onto Travel+Leisure’s hip list.And they’re not the only ones.Inde Japanese chain Suzuki Kitchen (10—14 Yangmeizhu Xiejie) has one of the best spaces on Yangmeizhu—a beautifully zen long room, filled with light and with its own kooky picnic area out front.

在登上“旅游+休闲时尚”榜单之前，位于杨梅竹斜街166号的湘菜小馆渔芙南过去数年都少为人知。除这家外，还有不少时尚餐厅。比如，位于杨梅竹斜街10—14号的日餐连锁店铃木食堂，环境堪称杨梅竹斜街最佳之一，有一个充满曼妙禅意的纵长房间，光线充足，餐馆前还有一个特色野餐区。

The Mix of Old and New

新旧混搭

Take a historic old district (home of the city’s oldest brand shops, opium dens and brothels), add a large dash of contemporary styling (thanks, Beijing Design Week) and you’ve got the perfect clash of old and new.For an insight into how the area has changed over the years, check out Beijing Postcard’s Public History Space at No.97 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, where you can hear audio recordings by locals and buy some beautiful old maps of the area.

大栅栏这个历史老街区，原本集中了北京城年代最久远的老字号店铺、鸦片烟馆和妓院，在添加大量现代风格元素后（感谢北京国际设计周的工作），形成了完美的新旧碰撞。如果你想进一步了解这个街区过往几年的变迁，可以去北京卡片这家公司位于杨梅竹斜街97号的“公众历史空间”转转，在这儿你可以听到北京土著录制的音频，还可以买到漂亮的大栅栏地区老地图。

The Design Boutiques

设计精品店

Beijing has long been a city where all the best independent boutiques are spread miles apart.Luckily, Yangmeizhu Xiejie has stepped in to fill the void.Ubi Gallery (No.62) is a Bespoke favorite—a fantastic collection of Chinese and international designers—ceramics, cutting-edge jewelry, clothes,bags and the like.Meanwhile smaller spaces (often hidden at the top of exter-

北京城里最出色的各家独立精品店一直以来彼此相距甚远。幸运的是，杨梅竹斜街现在填补了空白。位于62号的Ubi艺廊是家很受欢迎的买手店，他家商品荟萃中外设计师的绝妙设计，有陶器、前卫首饰、服装、手袋等。此外，还有好些隐藏在诸如户外楼梯顶或者小巷深处的小店等你去发现，看看那些简洁的中式服

〔〕〔〕nal staircases or down alleyways—go explore!) are fun to browse for simple Chinese clothes, handmade notebooks and other tchotchkes.Check out Taciturnli, Twelve Moons and the Book Design Shop.

装、手工制作的笔记本和各种小玩意儿，也是很有意思的。Taciturnli、Twelve Moons和Book Design Shop都值得一看。

Dashilan’s Yangmeizhu Xiejie (Byway) and surrounding hutongs are a great place to check out the above mentioned venues, but if you want to take a visit there to the next level, why not have a historian really bring it to life?From the Boxer Rebellion to the founding of the People’s Republic, the area has seen more turbulence and change than almost any other.From 5,600RMB for a 3-hour private tour.

大栅栏的杨梅竹斜街（斜街就是主街旁边的小街）及其周边胡同是探索前文介绍的场所的好去处。不过，你要是还想进一步探访，何不请一位了解这个地方历史的人为你做更生动的介绍？从义和团运动至中华民国的成立，大栅栏这个街区恐怕比北京城其他地方目睹了更多沧海桑田的变化。3小时的私人行起价5600元人民币。