白玉力

⊙ 书评

移动的边界
——简评艾丽斯·麦克雷尔的《艺术与时尚》

白玉力

艾丽斯·麦克雷尔博士的这本著作对15～21世纪初西方艺术与时尚之间千丝万缕的关系进行了严谨而细致的阐述分析。结合文艺复兴、洛可可、新古典主义、印象主义等代表性艺术风格的形成和发展，本书从多个层面讨论了拉斐尔、提香、布歇、惠斯勒、莫奈等众多艺术家与服装时尚有关的创作实践，包括19世纪下半叶现代时装设计师出现之后艺术与时尚之间出现新的融合景象。通过这本著作，读者会了解到艺术与时尚在不同历史时期所表现出的关联方式和特征，更重要的是，还会清晰地看到，艺术与时尚之间的关联不仅源远流长，而且水乳交融—无论在历史还是当下，对于艺术和时尚而言，无所谓利益既得者或者受害者，它们双方其实是彼此成就、互为依存的有机关联。

艾丽斯﹒麦克雷尔；艺术；时尚；关联；艺术家；设计师

Abstract:In her book Art and Fashion, Dr Alice Mackrell thoroughly explored the intricate connection of art and fashion in the 15th and early 21st centuries. In link with the development of important art movements since the Renaissance, this book took a detailed look at the fashion-related practices of numerous artists including the likes of Raphael, Titian, Boucher, Monet, as well as the dynamic interaction of art and fashion with the emergence of fashion designer in the late 19th century. In doing so, the issues of how the two fields were closely intertwined and what features they represented in different historical periods were handled effectively. By reading this thoughtful and fascinating writing, readers will clearly realize the fact that far beyond loose coupling, art and fashion have been inextricably linked for hundreds of years.Given their organic relationship, it is obviously unfair and arbitrary to simply decide which party is beneficiary or cat’s paw.

Key words:Alice Mackrell; Art; Fashion; Connection; Artist; Designer

当前学界对于艺术与时尚之间关系的研究多集中在19世纪后期到20世纪初或者21世纪初这两个时期，而《艺术与时尚》（英文著作，原名“Art and fashion: The impact of art on fashion and fashion on art”）却将目光拉至时尚初现的文艺复兴时期，以史论结合的方式对两者的相互关联进行了追根溯源。作者艾丽斯·麦克雷尔（Alice Mackrell）在序言部分主要论述了15至17世纪安东尼奥·皮萨内洛、拉斐尔、提香等艺术家在新兴的人文主义精神引领之下对服装的精准表现和深入研究，在之后的五个篇章中，围绕艺术与时尚相互影响的主题对18至21世纪初的代表性艺术运动（洛可可、新古典主义、浪漫主义、唯美主义等）的形成和发展进行了阐述，讨论了相关艺术家和设计师的活动实践，以此勾勒出六百多年来两者错综复杂的关系及其表现特征。……