马胜杰

《中华服饰文化研究工程》项目研究计划

马胜杰

鉴于目前国内学术界尚缺乏对中华服饰从文化层面较全面系统的研究成果，北京服装学院联合来自国家社科院等多所权威机构的知名专家，开展《中华服饰文化研究工程》。本文即是针对研究工程提出的几点研究设想。工程的研究对象以汉民族服饰为主，以服饰发展历史为线，以文化个案研究为点，围绕中华各民族服饰文化的演变问题，探究导致服饰形制嬗变与服饰文化变革的深层因素。研究工程构建了多维立体研究架构，并明确在社会生活史的宽阔视野之下，以物质文化史的研究方法为主展开研究。研究工作以二重证据法为基础，辅以口述史与田野调查等新研究方法，将宏观论述、中观考察、微观分析结合起来进行服饰文化综合研究。研究的成果形式将体现为学术著作、学术论坛、服饰文化数据库等多种形式。总之，研究工程对于加强和推动中华服饰文化研究的整体水平具有重要的开创性意义。

中华服饰；文化研究；研究计划

Abstract:Due to the lack of comprehensive and systematic research result of Chinese costume culture from cultural aspect in current academic circles, BIFT unites authority organizations and professional scholars from Chinese Academy of Social Sciences to launch the project study of Chinese Costume Culture. The article suggests several ideas. The project chooses Han nationality as the main study content, combined which costume history and culture case study, focuses on the evolution of China’s multi-nationalities costume culture to explore the changing reason of costume form and culture. The project constructs the multi-three-dimensional study frame and confirms the main research method of material and cultural history in the broad view of social life history. Based on dual attestation and assists with oral history and field research, the study aims to research costume culture comprehensively through combining macro-discuss, mesoscale-investigation and micro-analysis. The research results will include variety forms, such as academic books, academic forum and costume cultural database, etc. In summary, the project has pioneering significant to strengthen and promote the overall performance of the study of Chinese costume culture.

Key words:Chinese Costume; Culture Study; Research Program

中国自古以来被称为“衣冠之国”，服饰历史文化深厚悠久，曾经在中国古代塑造国家文化与国家形象上发挥着重要作用。但由于多种原因，专注于服饰历史与文化研究的现当代中国服饰理论研究起步较晚，以1979年沈从文先生的《中国古代服饰研究》一书成稿为学科研究起步的标志，至今近四十年间，学界尽管已在研究上取得了令人瞩目的成就，但与中国服饰历史浩瀚庞大的内容相比较仍显渺小，服饰理论研究工作依然任重道远。……