熊果酸与白芷抗氧化面膜的制备及其性能评价
2025-07-27张亦琳赵萍曹洁
中图分类号:TQ658.2 文献标识码:A 文章编号:1674-0033(2025)04-0001-06
Abstract:Inorder to develop an antioxidant Chinese medicine masks with Ursolic acid and AngeLica dahurica as the main functional substances,on the basis of the traditional mask process,Ursolic acid and Angelica dahurica extract were added. Then the characters of the mask such as appearance properties, stability,coldand heatresistance,andstretchabilitywereevaluated.Meanwhile,the functional propertiesof the mask such as moisturizing properties, active ingredient release performance, DPPH·scavenging experiment,skin irritation and acute eye irritationwere determined to acquire the optimal process ratio. The results showed that the optimal process conditions for the mask were: ursolic acid 15 mg, Angelica dahurica extracts 3 mL, yelow gelatin O.2 g, methylparaben 0.15 g,betaine 3 g, trehalose 2 g, glycerol 10 g, caprylic capric polyethylene glyceryl O.5 g,phenoxyethanol O.4 g,sweet orange essential oil 0.15 g, deionized water 100mL . The test shows that the mask has stable properties,and is safe and reliable, and has good moisturizing and antioxidant activity.The in vitro moisturizing rate was 96.49% ,the highest DPPH·clearance rate was 89.5% when tested,and there was no obvious irritation to the skin and eyes of rats.This study expands the range of antioxidant masksand broadens the application scope of Ursolic acid and Angelica dahurica.It providesa theoretical foundation and technical support for the further development of Ursolic acid and Angelica dahurica in the field of antioxidant masks.
Key Words: Traditional Chinese Medicine masks; Ursolic acid; AngeLica dahurica; antioxidant activity
面膜通过为肌肤提供护理,已成为不可替代的美容护肤产品。中药面膜是以中医药理论为指导,结合现代科学仪器和技术,在普通面膜的基础上加入所需功效的中药材,制作出效果明显、安全可靠的新型面膜,以满足人们对面部护理的特殊需求。中药面膜的主要活性作用成分来源于天然药物中具有回归自然、疗效稳定、安全可靠等特点,受到消费者的青睐。熊果酸 (UrsolicAcid) ,别名乌索酸、乌苏酸,主要存在于杜鹃科植物熊果、玄参科植物毛泡桐叶和木樨科植物女贞叶等药用植物[2中,具有抗炎[3、抑菌[4、抗氧化5等多种生物学效应,且毒性低,被广泛用于医药和化妆品原料[27中。秦岭分布着多种含熊果酸的植物,如山茱萸、山楂、鸡屎藤等。近年来围绕其资源分布、提取工艺及药理活性展开诸多研究,旨在挖掘药用价值,推动资源合理开发与可持续利用。白芷(Angelicadahurica),又名百苕、香白芷等。外观呈类圆锥形无明显的棱骨,表面呈黄色或淡棕色,有众多皱纹,质坚硬而较轻,口尝味辛,微有苦味,具有解表散寒、祛风正痛、宣通鼻窍、燥湿止带、消肿排脓的功效。白芷在秦岭地区分布广泛,多生长于林下、林缘、灌丛及山谷草地等环境。目前,针对秦岭白芷的研究已涉及化学成分、栽培技术和药理作用等多个领域。白芷被誉为“美白第一品”,其水提液对皮肤病、瘙痒有较好的疗效,可通过改善局部血液循环,促进皮肤细胞新陈代谢,消除色素在组织中的过度堆积,去除面部色斑瘢痕,从而达到美容的作用,在美容护肤品中应用也较为广泛[10]。……
