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边境小城马斯特里赫特

2022-06-14飞扬李沐

走向世界 2022年5期
关键词:多米尼加教堂荷兰

文/飞扬 图/李沐

欧洲不同时代和不同地域的文化在马斯特里赫特碰撞交汇,造就了它与其他荷兰城市截然不同的人文风采。With the collision and integration of the cultures of different times and regions of Europe, it has developed a humanistic style that is markedly different from that of other Dutch cities.

马斯特里赫特为荷兰林堡省的首府,与比利时和德国毗邻,是荷兰的第一个居民点。欧洲著名的马斯河从法国的朗格勒高原发源,流经比利时,穿越阿登森林高地,流入荷兰境内并最终注入北海。荷兰最早的先民在马斯河一处水流平缓的河滩地繁衍生息,逐渐建立城邦,这就是“穿越马斯河之城”——最初的马斯特里赫特。

由于特殊的地理位置,马斯特里赫特自古以来就是极为重要的军事战略要地,也是各国必争之地。历史上,马斯特里赫特曾被西班牙、法国、德国入侵多达20多次,欧洲不同时代和不同地域的文化在这里碰撞交汇,造就了它与其他荷兰城市截然不同的人文风采,就连当地的语言也是混杂了法语、德语和荷兰语的一种方言。1992年,欧洲各国在这里签署了《马斯特里赫特条约》,决定了欧洲大一统的走向,展开欧洲各国间包括经济、外交、国防上的新合作关系,欧元由此诞生。因此,马斯特里赫特是欧元的诞生地。

马斯特里赫特海纳百川的包容,让其成为最具独特风情的欧洲城市之一。欧洲的精华可以说皆汇集于此:铺满中世纪石砖的街道上,两旁或是西班牙式的白色建筑,或是法国风格的购物街,又或残垣断壁的古城墙,沧桑却唯美。无论是穿行于旧城区的古建筑群中,还是坐在河畔静观风景,都能深深地感受到马斯特里赫特与众不同的韵味和浓厚的文化内涵。

跨越马斯河的圣瑟法斯大桥修建于一世纪,见证了这座城市的发展变迁。Built in the first century A.D., the St. Servatius Bridge across the Maas River witnessed the development and changes of this city.

融合多种建筑风格的圣扬教堂(左)和圣瑟法斯教堂(右)并立于弗莱特霍夫广场一侧。Integrating multiple architectural styles, Sint-Janskerk (left) and the Church of St. Servatius (right) stand side by side on Vrijthof Square.

马斯特里赫特有着众多的室外咖啡馆,经常是顾客云集,座无虚席。Maastricht has numerous outdoor cafes, which are often full of customers, with no empty seats.

天堂书店被誉为“全球最美十大书店”之一,其前身是一座教堂。Boekhandel Selexyz Dominicanen is known as one of the "Top 10 Most Beautiful Bookstores in the World", and its predecessor was a church.

来到这座城市的游客当中,肯定有一部分是专门为了天堂书店而来。梦幻的名字源于它所在的独特位置——多米尼加教堂之内。这座建于13世纪的哥特式教堂外观沧桑,内部却别有洞天,有古老的壁画、美丽的彩窗、现代书籍以及咖啡的芳香。据说,1794年之后,多米尼加教堂被封禁,直到2002年瑟莱克斯连锁书店对其进行改建,并经过长达5年时间的装修,才于2007年变身为书店与公众见面,不仅获得了世界级建筑大奖,还在英国《卫报》的“全球最美十大书店”榜单里位列第一。整个书店将现代元素与哥特式建筑风格相结合,不仅保持了多米尼加教堂的历史古貌,也给快节奏的现代人提供了一个安静的读书场所。读者置身书海,被书本簇拥环绕,时间亦仿佛凝止,不再流动。

圣皮特要塞是马斯特里赫特在中世纪时为防止外敌围攻而修建的堡垒。Fort St. Pieter is a fort built for preventing siege by foreign enemies in the Middle Ages in Maastricht.

Maastricht, the capital of Limburg in the Netherlands, borders Belgium and Germany. Due to its special geographical location, Maastricht has been not only a strategic military area of great significance, but also a hotly-contested spot for countries since ancient times. In history, Maastricht had been invaded by Spain, France and Germany more than 20 times. With the collision and integration of the cultures of different times and regions of Europe, it has developed a humanistic style that is markedly different from that of other Dutch cities. Even its local language is a dialect mixing French, German and Dutch. In 1992, European countries signed thehere, which determined the great unity trend of Europe, and launched new cooperative relations on economy, diplomacy and national defense among European countries. Then, the euro emerged. Thus, Maastricht is the birthplace of the euro.

The inclusiveness of Maastricht makes it one of the most distinctive European cities. The cream of Europe is here. Among the people who have been to this city, some of them certainly came to visit Boekhandel Selexyz Dominicanen. The dreamlike name is derived from its unique location—Dominican Church. This gothic church built in the 13th century appears old externally, but houses amazing treasures including old frescoes, beautiful stained glass windows, modern books, and aromatic coffee. It is said that, the Dominican Church had been banned since 1794; in 2002, the chain bookstore Selexyz rebuilt it; after five years of decoration, it turned into a bookstore open to the public in 2007. It has not only won a world-class architecture award, but also ranked first on the list of “Top 10 Most Beautiful Bookstores in the World” published by the UK’s.

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